Discus Fish Home

People often say Discus are very difficult to keep! Well that might be true if you don't get the basics right to start with. Once you have understood and put into practice what you know, it is I think, very easy to keep any Discus, wild or tank bred. The following three factors are called the Golden Rules of Discus keeping: Water Quality If your Discus are ill or you have a problem with them, the root cause is nearly always the water quality. The native waters from which the Discus are from, in Brazil is soft and acidic. So it is understandable that we need to replicate this type of water in our home aquarium. A larger volume of water is easier to keep stable than a smaller volume, bear this in mind when you are choosing your tank, in other words get the largest one you possibly can. I assume you are familiar with the Nitrogen Cycle (if not you really need to understand this fully). Discus will not tolerate Ammonia or Nitrite in any amount, and only the bare minimum Nitrate. Make sure the detritus is removed on a daily basis together with any uneaten food, as this will quickly form Ammonia. If you feed beefheart always feed day time, never at night, as there are always some fatty bits that do not get eaten and you don't want that in the tank overnight. Ph is of course very important, as this is the measure of acidity and alkalinity. Ph of 7 is neutral, that is between acid and alkaline. Discus like the Ph between 5.5 and 6.8 and will tolerate 7.0 to 7.4. Heckles like it 5.0 to 5.5. General Hardness should be between 2 and 8. Conductivity should be about than 10ms. If you are unlucky enough to live in a hard water area, you will need to bring down the hardness and probably the Ph as well. I would recommend a Reverse Osmosis filter, which strips everything from the water and will in the process lower the Ph and the hardness; this depends on how alkaline and hard the water was to start with, you can then mix back a percentage of filtered tap water to acquire the correct Ph, Hardness and Conductivity. To do this use a filter which removes heavy metals and chlorine, this filter will not alter the Ph or hardness of the water passing through it. Feeding For adult fish feed 2 or 3 times a day, do not overfeed as the food will pollute the water quickly. Feed should be high quality flake, Prima, beefheart (make your own, it's worth it in the long run), high protein foods, live food like white worms or small earth worms (make sure these are washed and purged 24 hours on shredded newspapers before feeding). Do not feed Bloodworm, Tubifix or any frozen processed foods that are not gamma radiated, or better still no over the counter' frozen food, because how do you know it has not thawed out on route to the retailer? This can cause major problems, it's better to stick to your own homemade beefheart. Water Changes Stick to regular water changes every week. Discus like constant water parameters, so a 25% water change every week is best. Thanks for waching..Yassar Ceethirakath

Discus Fish Home sentiment_very_dissatisfied 4

Discus 14 years ago 29,606 views

People often say Discus are very difficult to keep! Well that might be true if you don't get the basics right to start with. Once you have understood and put into practice what you know, it is I think, very easy to keep any Discus, wild or tank bred. The following three factors are called the Golden Rules of Discus keeping: Water Quality If your Discus are ill or you have a problem with them, the root cause is nearly always the water quality. The native waters from which the Discus are from, in Brazil is soft and acidic. So it is understandable that we need to replicate this type of water in our home aquarium. A larger volume of water is easier to keep stable than a smaller volume, bear this in mind when you are choosing your tank, in other words get the largest one you possibly can. I assume you are familiar with the Nitrogen Cycle (if not you really need to understand this fully). Discus will not tolerate Ammonia or Nitrite in any amount, and only the bare minimum Nitrate. Make sure the detritus is removed on a daily basis together with any uneaten food, as this will quickly form Ammonia. If you feed beefheart always feed day time, never at night, as there are always some fatty bits that do not get eaten and you don't want that in the tank overnight. Ph is of course very important, as this is the measure of acidity and alkalinity. Ph of 7 is neutral, that is between acid and alkaline. Discus like the Ph between 5.5 and 6.8 and will tolerate 7.0 to 7.4. Heckles like it 5.0 to 5.5. General Hardness should be between 2 and 8. Conductivity should be about than 10ms. If you are unlucky enough to live in a hard water area, you will need to bring down the hardness and probably the Ph as well. I would recommend a Reverse Osmosis filter, which strips everything from the water and will in the process lower the Ph and the hardness; this depends on how alkaline and hard the water was to start with, you can then mix back a percentage of filtered tap water to acquire the correct Ph, Hardness and Conductivity. To do this use a filter which removes heavy metals and chlorine, this filter will not alter the Ph or hardness of the water passing through it. Feeding For adult fish feed 2 or 3 times a day, do not overfeed as the food will pollute the water quickly. Feed should be high quality flake, Prima, beefheart (make your own, it's worth it in the long run), high protein foods, live food like white worms or small earth worms (make sure these are washed and purged 24 hours on shredded newspapers before feeding). Do not feed Bloodworm, Tubifix or any frozen processed foods that are not gamma radiated, or better still no over the counter' frozen food, because how do you know it has not thawed out on route to the retailer? This can cause major problems, it's better to stick to your own homemade beefheart. Water Changes Stick to regular water changes every week. Discus like constant water parameters, so a 25% water change every week is best. Thanks for waching..Yassar Ceethirakath

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Most popular comments
for Discus Fish Home

callmull
callmull - 12 years ago
i.e 0.1nanometers lol
misstamps1
misstamps1 - 13 years ago
So pretty!
TheBSideDJ
TheBSideDJ - 13 years ago
osmose water is not testable with a normal pH testing unit (based on Voltage-mesurement), because every conductivity is out of the water (AND buffering capacity of KH is gone becaque KH is zero)... so i searched a lot of chemical principles, but i don't seem to understand the real story behind pH and osmose water....can any-one help me. What about lowering pH with CO2 (normally used for feeding plants), is that oké under controlled concentrations ?
Dennis Chan
Dennis Chan - 14 years ago
the last time ive changed the water was well before summer. Around April time I changed roughly 20% of the water. I haven't touched the water ever since because i live in a hard water area. Ive tested the water and it comes out around 7.6. My fish tanks PH level as of now is around 7.4-7.6. I am currently dosing it with the proper ph 7.0. which i add 11 of those spoons every 2 days. I have 4 apple rainbows, 3 Angelfish and 2 Discus as of now in a 110 gallon fish tank.
Dennis Chan
Dennis Chan - 14 years ago
Sadly, two of my discus just died, they've been with me for a year and a half. Sadly both of them died on the same day. Any advices? I have my PH level at 7.6 which is pretty high. I actually bought a PH stabilizer lowering the PH level by .2 everyday. I just started this process around 2 hours ago. Do you think the high PH level is the cause of the death of my Discus? OR could it be the regular feeding of Bloodworms for its diet? OR could it be that i hardly change my water? once every 6 m
Dennis Chan
Dennis Chan - 14 years ago
WHAT? NO BLOODWORMS? ARE YOU SERIOUS? please give me some more advice on the diet, i feed them bloodworms and brine shrimp.
sabestian123ify
sabestian123ify - 14 years ago
how to make beef heart wht the ingerdint

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