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About DIY PVC Canoe/Kayak Cart
The "DIY PVC Canoe/Kayak Cart" video is part of the kayaking category, which contains similar videos like this one.
10. comment for DIY PVC Canoe/Kayak Cart
I used it as a model to build one for my 100 pound paddle boat. Works great.
Because the boat is heavy I used 1 inch pvc pipe and added 1/2 inch pvc pipe internally as re-enforcement. I already had the wheelbarrow wheels, glue, and the 1/2 inch pvc, so I had to buy 2 1 inch pvc pipes, the pvc fittings (about $20), the 5/8 inch metal threaded rod ($20), a couple of 5/8 inch nuts and 5/8 steel spacers (about $5) at Lowe's home improvements. I placed end caps for looks and a threaded T so I can easily attach/dis-attach the pull/push handle. My biggest suggestion is not to glue anything together until you are sure the measurements are right. The one I built is bigger in width because the paddle boat is wider so I had to use my own measurements. The closest cart I could find that MAY work on my paddle boat, I found at LL.Bean for $150. So.... I know this one works for my wide boat and saved me about $100. Following is a link to the photo.
Thanks again. Fun project and gave me bragging rights. :)
http://www.clippersolutions.com/pbcart.jpg
I live right on a river but we're on a steep hill, so it's been a pain to drag the boats up by hand and one of the canoes has a keel, so I didn't like dragging it.
I altered your design. We have 2 canoes of different sizes and a kayak. I ran into the same instability issue others did, so built two wheeled frames and interchangeable middle connecter pieces of different sizes to fit the different boats-this allows me to easily strap the frames to the seats and keep the boats from slipping off). I used an 1-1/4" pipe for the middle pieces and the handles from your 1" frames are 24" long, I slide them into the 1-1/4" middle pipe with 2 holes drilled on each for each side secured with locking pins. This way the cart can be easily adjusted for each boat and it can also be broken down for easy storage. There are trees on the hill between here and the house, so instead of doing the same 1-piece 5/8" threaded rod in the front, I broke down a portaging cart we had, repurposed the wheels that had independent pin sets and made a separate section for the front: your (shortened) design on top, with a separate piece of pipe below for the wheels, T-fitting in the middle, and I drilled a hole through the 2 T-fittings and inserted a bolt with some large flat washers between the PVC fittings so there's some (albeit clunky) steering.
The T-fitting of the top part (your design) has the handle pointed backwards to be inserted to the middle 1-1/4 piece. The "axle piece" has the handle facing forward so I can hand-pull it or hook it up to a tractor. For that portion, I drilled a put a cap at the end of the handle and drilled a hole and put an eye bolt through it so I can connect it to the tractor pin, or I can carabiner a hand-pulling handle onto it.
I finally finished and tested it today and it works. I think the extra torque strain from the hill might cause the front frame to break sooner. However your cheap and easy design, and. Ecause it isn't permanently attached to the back section will allow me to rebuild it and/or alter the design a bit to suit the extra strain.
Sorry for the log-winded and poorly explained redesign. You were immensely helpful, though. If you're interested, I'll take some pictures or make a video. But it started raining shortly after I finished today.
Also, FYI, the employees that work there have no say over the organization of the department. There's a separate team that comes in and seems to do a set up that makes absolutely no sense, and right when we learned where everything is, they'd change it again. The smooth plugs were not only NOT next to the other plugs and caps, they were on a different shelf.
If your Denver store doesn't have them find a manager or someone that's been there for a long time and have them call another store and get a store-to-store transfer. It may take a week, but it's free and the plugs will only be about $1.
Hope this helps.
20. comment for DIY PVC Canoe/Kayak Cart
30. comment for DIY PVC Canoe/Kayak Cart
Much better than the commercial cart/dollies I've seen at Amazon and other retailers.
Simple, inexpensive and functional.
Nice work!
Good Job
50. comment for DIY PVC Canoe/Kayak Cart
You should sell this thing: I'm sure that you can do better than most of the manufacturers because your design is simple, functional, and cheap.
thanks for posting
https://goo.gl/photos/RjnRNkZAQJ4angjZ9
https://plus.google.com/u/0/102786749596780698504/posts/P5hZqwXfgwk?pid=6152970985530365202&oid=102786749596780698504
works wonderful
Instead of parallel top rails, I angled the rails to follow the contour of the hull
Fits like a glove
Also didn't need the handle
I mount my kayak by standing behind the cart with both feet chocking the wheels.
Cart is tilted down , with kayak to the side I lift it onto the cart , it levels up and I secure with a bungee. then i can move feet away, Go to the front and away I go !
Canoe carrier. Video response to Makify1
100. comment for DIY PVC Canoe/Kayak Cart
Check it out and let me know what you think:
http://youtu.be/zz_I59i5cN0
=)
Thanks again!
P.s. I have the same old style canoe you have, mine is an '82 and red.
Caddis gets a thumbs up too. I've been looking for something like this. Thanks