Making a DIY Kayak Dolly
Kayak 5 years ago 131,726 views
Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=257047 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/wilker_dos/ Website: https://www.wilkerdos.com/ Want to support me? Support the companies that support me. Triton Tools: http://bit.ly/2jaC0dD, ISOtunes: http://bit.ly/2rVobCD, Rockler: http://bit.ly/2oWrisB, Titebond: http://bit.ly/2zicV9i, and Infinity Tools: http://bit.ly/2LAsD35 Things I Used in This Project: ISOtunes Bluetooth Hearing Protection: http://amzn.to/2pEjNtv Miter Saw: http://amzn.to/2tF5Azc Miter Saw Stand: http://bit.ly/2pwceVy Infinity Table Saw Blade: http://bit.ly/2HUCRsF Router Table: http://amzn.to/2hM912C Infinity Round Over Bit: http://bit.ly/2Nf2FUd Triton Belt Sander: https://amzn.to/2HCQgu7 Triton SuperJaws: http://amzn.to/2zYTWSv Titebond III WoodGlue: http://amzn.to/2zZIRQw Ultimiate Workbench Plans: http://bit.ly/2LdT3Z0 Triton Drills: http://bit.ly/2qqO4sK
IT'S ANOTHER NEW SUNDAY @ 2:00pm
AND US "SUBSCRIBERZ"
ARE WAITING HERE CHICKIE . Hahah...
make the blocks bigger, and add backing blocks inside and larger than the topside blocks
bigger blocks allow for two holes in the blocks, one for axle in rolling position, one for axle in stowing position.
the pins should be tethered, secured to the blocks by thin stainless cable.
Evolution glitch's comment is a pretty solid suggestion/improvement. Plus, moving the wheels further toward the back will make it easier to move by increasing the rear ground clearance. You can see in the video, the tail of the kayak is dragging on the pavement.
One last option would be to have legs that hinge out and down like wings. The legs can be stowed up in an collapsed X position behind you. In that case you would only need locking pins for the down position.
I love your workshop, i can hear your echo!
I love watching your way, everyone does things differently.
I love how quickly you learn, design, tools and add the "play by play description.
Your video's are perfect for me, you can articulate and enunciate without your favorite music.
Keep up the great work April Wilkerson! I promise your truly one in a million..
the main actress looks like you. greetings from brazil!
10. comment for Making a DIY Kayak Dolly
Thank you for your time and thank you for your videos!!! I love your channel and projects you share ...Emmaye
20. comment for Making a DIY Kayak Dolly
Redesign the wood mounts to hold a 3/4" straight conduit. The two 1/2" conduit axels will slide and rotate inside this allowing the wheels to be adjustable for rotation and width.
I'll draw it up for you, if you would like.
30. comment for Making a DIY Kayak Dolly
50. comment for Making a DIY Kayak Dolly
Maybe the next project could be an F1 kayak to save much weight and obviate a trolley?
For your solution you might want to weld a flange on the horizontal part of the steel tube and use holes in that flange together with a hole in the mount to set (via a bolt) the position (transport/float) of the legs. I think I saw that design on the adjustable legs of a lawn mower once.
Next time when you bend the conduit put the longer end on the ground. It will be much easier that way.
I’m interested how the Emt conduit will hold up over time. I’d think that a thicker walled conduit would work better like Ridged or stainless. But that is harder to bend and more expensive.
Buy a new lightweight kayak and ditch that 65 lb behemoth so you can carry your own ‘yak to the water.
The wheel setup looks horrible and when you were returning to your truck it most certainly was dragging.
I have a 13 ft and moving it is fun lol
100. comment for Making a DIY Kayak Dolly
(EDIT: I wondered if my fiberglass assumption was correct, and it turns out these shells are actually rotomolded polyethylene, a flexible and relatively soft plastic. So the reinforcing inner plate idea might even be more valid, as cracks in this stuff couldn't even be fixed with a fiberglass repair.)
I'm curious if you thought of removing the wheels and storing them in the truck after transporting to the water? If not, also wonder if the larger wheels would drag in the water unless stored at a higher angle.
Install sound absorbing panels in your shop. It'll decrease noise in your work environment, and decrease echo in your videos.
You had a problem and found a simple solution (the simple one's are often the best). Thanks for showing us the trials and errors. I think it's encouraging to see the process and know that not everything works out right the first time.
Another suggestion to improve your dolly legs: stuff 'em. Get or make some dowels that you can shove/pound into the conduit where it connects to the yak mounts. Insert the dowels with a liberal slathering of waterproof glue or epoxy. THEN drill through after the adhesive has cured. The conduit is experiencing pretty high torque right there at the mounts and though it's steel, it isn't great steel and likely to tear, especially if you're putting a cooler in the boat tool. Adding the filler dowel will transfer some of the torque to the rest of the surrounding conduit material and it should hold up a lot better.
Then that way as you move the wheels in and out they slide in and out of the larger conduit. It would add a lot more strength and possibly eleminate all the bow while still keeping your two lengths.
Also I see that it could add a tad bit more life to the wood since it won't be rubbing on the wood whitch could widen the hole over time.
Make sure to pull it off and get the bottom too. Otherwise you'll get swelling from the bottom and rot. While it's off, get inside the bolt holes too.
Finally, you may want to look at some clear caulk between the brace bottoms and boat-body, around the bolts. To minimize water intrusion into the body of the kayak.
Later on I put a bracket on the front and made up a single wheel with a tiller, and mounted the motor from an electric bike on it. You could sit in the boat and tool around the beach… but I wouldn’t recomend it. :)
"Boonedox Landing Gear Kayak Cart Review" it has the similar permanent kayak dolly mount like yours.
What were you thinking on this build?
This looks completely getto and cheap. Take it off and never ever talk about it again!.
1. No way you didn't scratch the bottom.
2. Paint the pipe to match.
3. It looks getto!
You could use a 1 piece axle design but cut it in 2 pieces insert smaller axle with 2 needle bearings an a lock pin to use as 1 piece or pull that pin an have independent axles on each side.
BIG GATOR TOOLS V-Drill Guide, Standard sizes 3/8 to 1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUS6VZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uTroBbXV9W93S
....13
A simpler solution for the "bending" problem might have just been to use two conduit couplers and another section of conduit... similar to your thoughts at 4:45 .
Coupler: http://www.conduitsfittings.com/photo/pl6419479-aluminum_emt_conduit_fittings_4_emt_coupling_1_2_emt_connectors_polishing_finish.jpg
You cut a piece of conduit that would fit between where the ends of the existing conduit are, and mount the couplers to that piece ONLY, leaving the half of the couplers over the exiting bracket loose: this way, each leg can still be lower separately... OR!
A SINGLE piece of conduit with a split in the center and one coupler. How would we get this through the wooden holder? SIMPLE!
You cut the holder in half through the hole, then mount it with two screws from the top, clamping the conduit in place.
Muchas gracias.
Basically a big upside down u shape with a wheel in between
Dual PURPOSE!
Job well done.
Maybe you can mount a Gopro too and show us some nice kayak footage , Go Aprilllllll
Bending conduit is quite easy and carrying a 65 pound yak is also quite easy.
The downside is I can't fit in a 65 pound yak :(
Nice job on the kayak improvement.
maybe a small pull rope so you dont have to bend lower to pull the front.
great ideal ! we luv your honesty ! :)
Just a suggestion. Anyway, I love your videos, April. Good luck!
The one-piece leg would definitely be stronger. You could make the "up" hole(s) in the cross brace wood.
I think you’d greatly benefit from having a one piece leg. As they are attached now they’re independent. Should you snag one side on something or turn it around 360 degrees it can twist the wooden mount and either
break/crack/split etc the pieces or bend the leg. But If it was one solid piece the chance of twisting twisting the one mount would be eliminated and make it stronger.
The second thing would be to get larger pneumatic tires. They’ll roll over things easier and make it easier to pull.
This is just my humble opinion and in no way am i disrespecting you or your work.
Yeah I know, and I fully understand her reasons for the separate legs, but I'm concerned that the added stress would snap the pinning points, as they're made out of wood, or even rip the screws out of the kayak itself. There is being put quite a lot of stress on those four points, with that kind of leverage - maybe a metal liner inside the pinning points would do the trick, and a thin plywood or stainless steel plate inside the kayak would help to not ripping the screws out of the kayak, when they're under load. :)
Don't you think that changing the pivot point will add even more stress to the pinning and mounting points?
Its not about pleasing everyone. Its about the facy this video and project simply sucked and your way better then this. If I didnt care I would have lied to you and said great video
Fabricate the wooden blocks so they accept a single axle all the way across the hull, eliminating the spreader.
The axle should just clear the hull, a lower profile than the band-aid spreader
inside the kayak, and under each wooden block, attach long stips of wood to spread the force on the hull over a long distance.
the mounting blocks to be in horizontal halves so one could still keep a simple one-piece axle tube bent for the wheels.
Flip it up to kayak, flip it down to transport
only 3 pieces of pipe (transverse axle plus 2 struts), and two elbows.
Paint to match the kayak
Advise if free, But doing it yourself cost you
Maybe you should admit this project needs to be taken out back and let go. Its straight BS
Yeah, but he could've done it in a polite and respectful way, which he didn't.
The dolly in inserted from the top when kayaking, and inserted from the bottom when transporting.
Enjoy your newly found freedom and thanks for the video!
I also suggest you remove the brackets and VARNISH them entirely. As they sit now, your brackets will start to rot from the bottom up from the moisture and sun. Polyurethanes aren't meant for sun or water. (Of course it's better than bare wood). Varnish is the way to go... Fun project with some great innovation. I had a kayak dolly to transport mine. If I still had it, I would have done something similar to what you have just done. Thanks for the constant stream of great ideas!
Cheers,