the sailyak - modify your kayak for sailing

Convert your ordinary kayak into a sailing rig for under a hundred bucks. Detailed description and plastic welding demonstration. Geocities website at the end of the video has changed. It can now be found at http://www.geocities.ws/rlzerr/

the sailyak - modify your kayak for sailing sentiment_very_dissatisfied 51

Kayak 15 years ago 372,741 views

Convert your ordinary kayak into a sailing rig for under a hundred bucks. Detailed description and plastic welding demonstration. Geocities website at the end of the video has changed. It can now be found at http://www.geocities.ws/rlzerr/

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Most popular comments
for the sailyak - modify your kayak for sailing

don jn
don jn - 6 years ago
Thats neat to u could make a swing keel for shoal water
Steve w
Steve w - 6 years ago
9 years later you still kayak-sailing?
Steve Branam
Steve Branam - 6 years ago
Nice!!!
Tom Smith
Tom Smith - 6 years ago
Would filling the mast with foam help with the flexing?
Francisco Rodriguez
Francisco Rodriguez - 6 years ago
genial
Evan Base
Evan Base - 6 years ago
why not just get a £400 laser 1
Fort Yort
Fort Yort - 6 years ago
This is incredible! I wish I had the skills & tools to try this out...someday.

Also very cool to see that wrecked boat out on the water.
Errik Bater
Errik Bater - 6 years ago
Please tell us more about the features that I need to know in order to find a suitable polyethylene.
Commenter Five
Commenter Five - 6 years ago
Having experience with JB Weld and West System epoxies, West System epoxy is superior in adhesion, strengths and far ahead in honesty and customer service.

10. comment for the sailyak - modify your kayak for sailing

Jason Kloos
Jason Kloos - 6 years ago
Brilliant.
drewhon
drewhon - 6 years ago
What a GREAT video. Thanks for sharing.
Daniel Dudoit
Daniel Dudoit - 7 years ago
9 years later I just want to say that you are a DIY LEGEND sir.
Dale Schultz
Dale Schultz - 7 years ago
great job
Ricardo Rios
Ricardo Rios - 7 years ago
muy buena idea, felicitaciones desde España
kitt2000car
kitt2000car - 7 years ago
I'am doing something similar with my 8ft clinker style sailing dinghy. Adding a second sail which will act as a genoa. Zap strapped a second mast to the original one, As the new sail is taller then the main. Bow sprit and new mast made out of pcp pipe.
Radnally
Radnally - 7 years ago
Very elegant design. Would outriggers help at all?
unclejack123
unclejack123 - 7 years ago
Very creative and well engineered project ...... JRW
steve K
steve K - 7 years ago
excellent job
John S
John S - 7 years ago
Excellent description and portrayal of how to make this thing work. Nice job!

20. comment for the sailyak - modify your kayak for sailing

Eric Buettgenbach
Eric Buettgenbach - 7 years ago
I didn't look to see how long ago you posted but a easy fix ( instead of carbon fiber mask or aluminum mask) could be to find some metal electrical conduit that fits inside your mask. That might help the flex and be cheaper than other fixes
Wayne r
Wayne r - 7 years ago
your big toe will haunt my dreams
solarson53
solarson53 - 7 years ago
real nice set up
we don't need no stinkin' Store Bought
thanks
billybones58
billybones58 - 8 years ago
Brother, I like your style. Making something out of nothing. Bravo!
MiamiFlatsMan
MiamiFlatsMan - 8 years ago
can this be done without the center board? I don't wanna drill a hole in the bottom of my kayak.
Steve Harrison
Steve Harrison - 7 years ago
You could try using leeboards instead. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leeboard
RLZerr
RLZerr - 8 years ago
+Alain Diaz yes but you cannot sail into the wind or even sideways very well. Even sailing at 90 degrees to the wind you will be pushed downwind some. I've seen others attach the centerboard to a cross board bungeed across the top of the kayak. It doesn't have to be exactly in the center of the kayak just has to oppose the force from the wind from the side. A much simpler design too.
fasignal
fasignal - 8 years ago
That's a good video , I never knew about the plastic welding iron.
Doctor CAD
Doctor CAD - 8 years ago
Thanks for posting your video. It was one of the few I kept returning to on youtube for inspiration and ideas for my own rig which I finished about a month ago(video posted today). I really like what you did here and it helped me to build mine. This is a great way for people to have their own personal sailboat that can go on the car top and be launched with just one person. Great idea! Thanks again
michael cummins
michael cummins - 8 years ago
I can see the necessity for the rutter but could you explain the reason behind using the middle aluminum plate. In the video you said it allows the boat to have power to go forward even with a side-wind, can you explain how in more depth.
I'm really interested in learning how to sail and am thinking of trying this but on a canoe. Any thoughts?
Julian Ramirez
Julian Ramirez - 8 years ago
+michael cummins The centerboard (middle aluminum plate) prevents the kayak from moving sideways when the force from the sails is pushing perpendicular to the kayak.
akris250c
akris250c - 8 years ago
Brilliant man
rokin91
rokin91 - 8 years ago
looks like its bookin ...good job

30. comment for the sailyak - modify your kayak for sailing

ks ben
ks ben - 8 years ago
how to ensure the sail has the desired airfoil shape? I read some articles on sail making and they mentioned about broadseam and rounding of the luff/foot edges.  I know nothing about these techniques. And seems like your sail is really a simple one that doesn't need to bother with the broadseams. Care to explain more on the sail?
ks ben
ks ben - 8 years ago
+RLZerr ..and if my theory is correct that also means more than half of the sail area right behind the mast isn't generating enough lift since there is no proper curvature (camber)
ks ben
ks ben - 8 years ago
+RLZerr after some research on Lateen sail (which sailboatstogo.com used for inflatable kayaks) and it seems to me that your sail works like a partial Lateen sail. Wikipedia:"Lateen sail" suggests that the conic section formed in a Lateen sail produces the airfoil shape. I suspected that you created (accidentally) your airfoil shape by the bending of the bottom boom. @8:56 we can see that there is a curvature towards the trailing edge of the sail. I guess if you tighten up the halyard supporting the top boom to reduce the sail curvature, the sail power decreases a lot.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 8 years ago
+ks ben I too am unfamiliar with meticulous technical details of sail design. My first sail was just a mast and boom and a triangle sail which did not provide enough power for my liking so added the top boom and fitted a sail with more square footage to catch more wind. And put a bend in the lower boom for head clearance. Everything was an experiment with no special sailing skills or advice from others so perhaps I got lucky that it works so well :) I did have a goal with this project to make it as easy to put together and take apart as possible using simple fittings and free or inexpensive parts.
Michael Webb
Michael Webb - 9 years ago
I just bought a new kayak and was thinking about re-purposing my old one into a sail boat like this. Cool video and good ideas on display here for a DYI conversion. I was thinking about pedal rudder controls on mine. Thanks for the tips and tricks. Nice work!
Rodrigo engrr
Rodrigo engrr - 9 years ago
First off all, congratulation for your ideas and thank you for post. I am very interested in how could I do that welding device. You did or you bougth it? What is that material used to weld? Unfortunatelly here in Brazil our kayaks has no much good options to sailing or fishing and we if we would like, we must costumise it.For sure your video will help us a lot.
Mike Shea
Mike Shea - 6 years ago
Milk jugs and laundry detergent bottles are the same material. I have used strips of milk jugs, to weld with a blow torch and hot spoon, a 1,500 gallon plastic water tank. I repaired a factory seam that had gave way.
Commenter Five
Commenter Five - 6 years ago
I haven't tried it yet, but believe a hot bed of wood coals in a hole in the ground would heat a steel rod of around 3/8" diameter to hot enough to do plastic welding. Keep yourself upwind. Cut plastic welding filler rods from same type plastic. Better a bit too hot of welding than too cool. Practice, practice. Enjoy.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 8 years ago
Most kayaks are made of high density polyethylene plastic. In the last couple years discovered the best adhesive to be Scotch Weld 2216. A room temperature cure semi flexible epoxy and works good on polyethylene as long as surfaces are roughened and are not subject to too much force. It is expensive epoxy, 1 small kit will cost as much as a plastic welder. JB Weld is the second best epoxy. It is cheaper but find it inferior to Scotch Weld because it cures very hard and brittle and easily peels from flexing forces. Plastic welding is superior to all adhesives. If done correctly is just as strong as the two materials joined. I would not rely on epoxy on polyethylene for high force joints such as mast or centerboard mounts. None of the adhesives you mentioned are reliable here especially PVC "glue" which only works for joining PVC to PVC. 
ks ben
ks ben - 8 years ago
Have you considered using liquid nail/Pipe Joint Compound/PVC glue rather than the plastic welder?
RLZerr
RLZerr - 9 years ago
The welding iron was bought online over 10 yrs ago for plastic welding. The welding rod is polyethylene. I bought a large roll on eBay at the same time. Still using it. Probably have a 500 year supply at my rate :)
Shane Thee
Shane Thee - 9 years ago
Does the boom swing above your head? I couldn't quite tell.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 9 years ago
yes, there is a slight bend in the boom to clear my head. I'm 6' 2".
Greg Westhoff
Greg Westhoff - 9 years ago
you did a great creating that sail rigging.
DPJ59
DPJ59 - 9 years ago
Well done, and good job making video too. I am thinking of adapting an old Dagger Delta SOT kayak to have sailing capabilities, and may try to incorporate some of your ideas to fit with my own situation. I already own a Hobie Kayak sail (no longer have the Hobie kayak) that I would like to use for this.It has an aluminum mast that may solve the problems you've had with the flex in the pvc mast. (I understand part of your purposes was to do this with simple cheap materials). I need to find a way similar to yours to create a sleeve to insert the bottom of mast.
 I also own a rudder kit that I bought years ago (at great expense) and never used, that would replace the foot braces in the Dagger, for the steerage control. Not sure if I can use that or not, or if rudder size is adequate for sailing. If not, a version of your design may come in to play.
 A couple of things I wonder about with your design - I assume that you have to enter the kayak at a bit of depth in order to have the centerboard and rudder in place. Do you find this to be easy? Will one of the store bought outrigger accessories (with inflatable pontoons) sold for Hobies work as well as your centerboard? Or is a centerboard necessary to be able to tack up wind? (I have a lot to learn about the physics involved in successful sailing). Anyway, as I said, great video - I enjoyed watching. And thanks for taking the time to produce and share it with others!    
RLZerr
RLZerr - 9 years ago
When I launch will set up in about 16 inches of water, put on the centerboard and rudder first, tip the kayak about 30 degrees to get at the bottom easy. Then grab the sail already assembled on shore and install it last. No problem getting in , sit down back first into the seat. You do need a centerboard of some kind to sail 90 degrees or up to 45 degrees into the wind. Tacking back and forth at 45 degrees or so you can zigzag upwind. Without a centerboard you will always end up downwind any direction you can sail. 
Joe Walshe
Joe Walshe - 9 years ago
Brilliant. Love the way you used what you can find but still went to the trouble of doing it right. 
RLZerr
RLZerr - 9 years ago
thanks. re-purposing is fun!
Stephen F
Stephen F - 9 years ago
Awesome Video !!! sail away with me. . . . .come. . .sail away come. . .sail away. . . .yeah baby yeah !!!  How long did u get to sail b4 it broke?
Raul Ressano Garcia
Raul Ressano Garcia - 9 years ago
can you handle a strong wind?
RLZerr
RLZerr - 9 years ago
anything more than about 12mph is rough. Ideal wind speed 5-10mph
RLZerr
RLZerr - 9 years ago
9 years and still sailing the same rig. Sail is a bit tattered now.  I did change the rudder control mechanism. Shown in another video.  
Audfile
Audfile - 6 years ago
Eff Yoo Bahamas, sounds nice. I live North to where if I jumped off my boat shirtless for a nice swim it would be instantly regretted and I'd be unconscious within 20 minutes.
Eff Yoo
Eff Yoo - 6 years ago
Audfile don't let some guy tell you you can't do it! YOU can do anything. What ocean are you crossing? I'll bet this would take me the 50 miles to the Bahamas from Wpb where I live. Would that not be "crossing ocean"?
Mark Quinton
Mark Quinton - 7 years ago
Absolutely not, you won't be able to store enough food or water for such a long voyage on a 10 ft kayak. All these rec yaks were not really designed to deal with waves at all.
Audfile
Audfile - 7 years ago
can you cross the ocean like this?
Shhaz4@gmail.com
Shhaz4@gmail.com - 9 years ago
Well done...
Walter
Walter - 9 years ago
Brilliant video, thank you,, from Lismore NSW Australia.
ymanganelli
ymanganelli - 9 years ago
Great job!!!
Bonifacio Martinez
Bonifacio Martinez - 9 years ago
Grate!!! Congrats!!!
zoffinger
zoffinger - 9 years ago
Not often do I see someone rigging out a cheap kayak as well as I do ;) 
lyn perk
lyn perk - 9 years ago
coffeefish
coffeefish - 9 years ago
The flex in the mast is probably keeping you from capsizing. When the wind is strong and the mast flexes, that will de-power the sail. You add a stiffer mast and the boat will on it's side faster than you can say "oh shit."
1biskitrocksdrums
1biskitrocksdrums - 9 years ago
Brother your a genius! !! Well done
Bastien Espallardo
Bastien Espallardo - 9 years ago
i think i will do the same on my inflatable dinghy. just to have a wood platform for fixation, pvc and some patience
John Doe
John Doe - 9 years ago
This is great.  I may give this a try with my kayak.  Thank you for sharing!

50. comment for the sailyak - modify your kayak for sailing

Jim Troyer
Jim Troyer - 9 years ago
Try schedule 80 PVC for the mast, it's considerably stronger than schedule 40 from the hardware store.
gearhed3113
gearhed3113 - 10 years ago
great videos! one small correction though, HDPE is high density polypropylene, not polyethylene. polypropylene is a much more workable material, although very similar to polyethylene 
RLZerr
RLZerr - 9 years ago
this is not a correct comment. Polypropylene is symbol  "PP"  Here is a reference page:   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resin_identification_code
Scott Shirey
Scott Shirey - 10 years ago
Your camera work captured the details of your project really well. I like your innovation.
Steve w
Steve w - 6 years ago
I wanted to say something 4 years ago but couldnt think of anything
Windlass123
Windlass123 - 10 years ago
Very nice,,,!!!
danny kim
danny kim - 10 years ago
Very nice work and video
Brian Gunn
Brian Gunn - 10 years ago
nice, how long would it take to cross the atlantic ?
Sat Bum
Sat Bum - 10 years ago
Very nice work.. I love your ingenuity. Thanks for sharing!
steven lang
steven lang - 10 years ago
Just awesome - love your invention ship and craftsmanship - applaud your efforts! I like your simple overview on how you used your plastic welder and methods. I wish other would take the time also. Great inspiration – when you don’t want to invest a lot of dollars in a craft that you are not going to use all the time but want to do the same – thanks
hdrjunkie
hdrjunkie - 10 years ago
that sir, is really, really, cool! thanks!!
lane neilson
lane neilson - 10 years ago
What is the sail made out of?
udmbfck
udmbfck - 10 years ago
Hello Sir: Just bought myself a Lifetime Payette Kayak that was on sale and with an additional coupon it came to $160 matching used ones on craiglist. I've been seeing your video over and over and came across the section on the mast material (The HD PVC is categorized as schedule 40 for 450 PSI). I've found that there is Schedule 80 at 630 PSI for 1" (a 40% improvement) as well as harder to find Schedule 120 at 720 PSI. Anything higher than that would require metal. What do you think? THANKS!
oldetavern
oldetavern - 10 years ago
Great video! Very well explained :)
RLZerr
RLZerr - 10 years ago
good luck with it and hope it works out. I look at it, if you get tired of paddling the same open waters endlessly month after month, year after year, adding a sail to harness all that free wind energy can bring the enjoyment back.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 10 years ago
some kayaks do come with sail fittings, the more expensive upper end models. This kayak was a simple $325 model from a local sporting goods store.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 10 years ago
it's not a canoe, and will capsize if you do not know what you are doing
RLZerr
RLZerr - 10 years ago
in nice smooth winds that aren't kicking up whitecaps tacking is effective
RLZerr
RLZerr - 10 years ago
close reach is probably the tightest it will sail effectively into the wind. depends on the winds of course. In the video demo when "in the reach position" is shown, the correct sailing lingo should probably have been "broad reach" I'm not salty enough for all that jargon. arrr.
Ferrociter
Ferrociter - 10 years ago
How does it handle with tacking? Can you run more close hauled or do you have to take more of a beam reach?
FantasticMrFish
FantasticMrFish - 10 years ago
I love it! gets my brain gears turning for project ideas for my kayak! is it easy for you to tack upwind in this?
keith rice
keith rice - 10 years ago
will it not turn over easy being a canoe ?
pen mightygun
pen mightygun - 10 years ago
why don't the kayak companies just mold that sail stuff in in the first place costing them nothing extra.
americasailingclub
americasailingclub - 10 years ago
OK I am sold, I have a great trade, bring your knowledge and time and come down to the florida keys. I will get materials and we will make in about two days then enjoy a few days of sailing aboard genigreen and then we will take our new toy out and have some ocean going video. And maybe even talk about a do-it-yourself kit...jay
brachino
brachino - 10 years ago
Thanks for sharing , Well done !
RLZerr
RLZerr - 10 years ago
John, you are right about depowering in gusts. I try to avoid sailing during unstable winds.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 10 years ago
David, I am on the other side of town. I like to go kayaking / sailing in the sound
David Jay
David Jay - 11 years ago
I live in Fort walton beach too! I really want to make one, do you live near the yacht club? Maybe I could pick up some ideas from you
Steven Watters
Steven Watters - 11 years ago
HEY Ft walton ! very nice I'm in Crestview now but enjoy those beaches every year with the kids.. pensacola beach moved me inland after hurricane Ivan '04, happy sailing see ya out there man.
esersch
esersch - 11 years ago
you should find out a way to control the degree of the mast so when the wind is heavy a simple turn of the mast and you wont blow over
Hermann Otto
Hermann Otto - 11 years ago
You mean land miles not nautical??
Ben Brown
Ben Brown - 11 years ago
Awesome period
John Edwards
John Edwards - 11 years ago
Flex in the mast is a good thing as it would depower the sail in gusts making it easier to stay upright.personally I think the area needing most improvement would be sail shape and cut. Good looking project though I like the centerboard setup thats pretty cool.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 11 years ago
I wouldn't use PVC if I did this again. Most windsurfers have a fiber / resin tapered mast that is very strong, rigid and light. Craigslist would be a great place to find more old windsurfers that might have a good mast. I bought an old windsurfer with mast and sail last spring but haven't done anything with it yet. If you do use PVC get the schedule 40 like I used here and fit the snuggest hickory shaft down the middle as you can find. I used a rake handle. But really, it's not rigid enough.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 11 years ago
polyethylene. It's easy to weld. PVC is hard to weld as it's composition breaks down at temperatures just above it's melt point so is very tricky. You can weld ABS, Polypropylene and others with correct rod. PEX doesn't melt well and bond so don't use that tubing. Most kayaks are Polyethylene. Some are fiberglass. I've heard of Ram-X but have not played with it.
genitalful
genitalful - 11 years ago
Good work mate your a thinker. i have been wondering how to make a pvc mast for a brand new windsurfing sail i picked up for $5 10 years ago.
Mealea Ying
Mealea Ying - 11 years ago
Wonderful.
springing
springing - 11 years ago
Very cool!
Andres Suarez
Andres Suarez - 11 years ago
The work on the hull is amazing, and look that works well, congratulations!! but I think you can get more performance I you make a good shape sail. Sails are like airplane wings, they are not flat, they have a curvature, that make it work better, and have good upwind performance. Contact me, If you want more information on this. edtere@yahoo.com
Toaster Chicken
Toaster Chicken - 11 years ago
The rear rudder would probably be better if you put a wheel on the top and wrapped the rope around it. Then you would get nearly 180deg rotation in it, limited by the input method used and depending on size you can adjust the torque involved too. You mentioned a lot of things you would have done differently, perhaps this can be added when you do 2.0
RLZerr
RLZerr - 11 years ago
the simple rudder and centerboard design is a big problem in shallow water. they are not retractable in this.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 11 years ago
I'm not familiar with ram-x. Plastic welding works great with polyethylene, polypropylene and some other plastics. PVC is tricky as the heating temperature range is small. If over heated it breaks down and turns black.
29erUSA1048
29erUSA1048 - 11 years ago
if u do a carbon rig use a windsurfer rig cuz those things are extremly flexible, if you used a straight up carbon rig you'd break all your mounts
a7i20ci7y
a7i20ci7y - 11 years ago
You could put lee-board slots on either side of the cockpit rather than penetrating the hull.
snackmanP
snackmanP - 11 years ago
very nice !
Joe Neill
Joe Neill - 11 years ago
Well done and very creative. How have you changed it since your initial design? Or how would you make it more robust other than stiffen the mast and boom? How does it point into the wind compared to Snark or Sunfish? Thanks for sharing.
dddave999
dddave999 - 11 years ago
Nice ideas to solve problems. Well done. Thanks for posting.
volentimeh
volentimeh - 11 years ago
plastic welding only works on thermo plastics, generally most softer recycle-able plastics, stiffer plastics that are formed by a chemical reaction (like epoxy resin) will burn if you try to plastic weld them, it's easy to check suitability in an inconspicuous area with a soldering iron, thermo plastic will melt around the tip, non thermo plastic will char and crumble.
Slim
Slim - 11 years ago
Out of all the videos I have seen so far, this really looks professional. I have seen some not add a Keel and thought; "I not think this tack well"? So, your addition of a keel is real nice. Heck, I was thinking cut a big slot or use a side board! Whooo! Glad I seen this! Also, how you made everything a "Part" of the kayak seems to me to be top notch. If there was a way to put a lasting paint job on you could make this almost look Factory made! Many Thanks!
Samu Babukokku
Samu Babukokku - 11 years ago
My mom was born in Fort Walten Beach, Florida.
A. Muñoz
A. Muñoz - 11 years ago
What material is your kayak made from? Mine is ram-x and I've heard some pretty bad things about it including the fact that it cannot be repaired. Does plastic welding work, regardless of the material as long as you use the correct rods?
crazycarlsworld
crazycarlsworld - 11 years ago
cool dude i just bought a watkins 25 and keeo her at broosk landing and i am just learning to sail. your project is something i could use as a ship to shore device at a reasonable cost hope to see you out there soon ,crazy carl

100. comment for the sailyak - modify your kayak for sailing

A. Muñoz
A. Muñoz - 11 years ago
Man, this is great. Highly detailed, easy to do, no major modifications, and I really appreciate that you didn't try to monetize it by selling plans or something. Thanks!
cnn94001
cnn94001 - 11 years ago
WELL DONE!!! is your rudder retractable? have you had problem sailing in shallow water? GREAT JOB!!
Robbie Burnett
Robbie Burnett - 11 years ago
You should make the steering with foot pedals
sgreen4
sgreen4 - 12 years ago
I wish you had a someone else take the video of you
Joseph Melia
Joseph Melia - 12 years ago
Great Job... You have inventiveness and skills,I don't know how you can keep upright without an outrigger while sailing though.I suppose,with your abilities it wouldn't be much of a challenge to add a leeboard and outriggers...Kudos to you sir.Good luck with it.
Nicholas Noble
Nicholas Noble - 12 years ago
I figured out that makeing a frame to place on top ot the kayak and using eyelets and cords to strap it down and then attatching leeboards using old cheep raft paddles worked a lot better that the center board on the bottom of the kayak.That way you can lift up the leeboards when you get in shallow water or in heavy weather. As for the support on the mast. If you screw in small eyelets into the the bow, starboard, port of your kayak, the attach a forstay and shrowds that would fix your stability
RLZerr
RLZerr - 12 years ago
When I first built this I did not have the orange 1 1/4" thick wall polyethylene conduit. The centerboard mount was a piece of 1 1/4" PVC pipe epoxied to an aluminum plate that was heated and slightly melted flat into the kayak. Extra polyethylene was melted and squeezed tight around the edges of the plate to seal it. this did eventually loosen and started leaking. Luckily shortly after that I found the conduit and replaced the assembly. I've picked up another scrap piece along a road recently.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 12 years ago
No, never any leakage. Even at the part that is blocked from welding from the top due to the seat being in the way. Two plastic surfaces welded together is virtually just as strong as the material itself, and it is reinforced with extra polyethylene as shown, and welded again. It's never cracked, leaked or otherwise come lose in 7 years. It gets bumped by legs, feet, cargo, etc.. The top of the riser tube is over 2 inches higher than the water will come up even with a heavy load.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 12 years ago
Sorry late response. I've thought about changing the centerboard mount to a sleeve to fit the board so it can be pulled up to clear land and would be the strongest way to mount it. Just like in a Laser, Sunfish, Snark, etc. Successfully fabricating a functional sleeve from sheet polyethylene and welding it around a slot in the kayak would be a tough job with a small welder but is an idea to ponder, and I might just try it :)
RLZerr
RLZerr - 12 years ago
I'm thinking of enlarging the sail for more speed in low winds. I have a larger carbon fiber non-flexing mast now that I have yet to install. The current sail is about 29-30 sq feet now, maybe go larger as much as 40 sq feet without an outrigger. I want to keep it as simple as possible and feel confident body weight alone will keep it upright :).
RLZerr
RLZerr - 12 years ago
Sorry late response. The hickory rake handle fits tight in the 1" heavy duty PVC mast but it still flexes too much. It has never broken though. I'm still sailing with it but now have a two and a quarter inch diameter carbon fiber mast that tapers down towards the top. It came from an old windsurfer. I want to use the existing 1 1/4 mast mount but haven't figured the best way to adapt it. I've been looking at some aluminum and PVC fittings.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 12 years ago
On plastic welding, a person could get by without a welder and plastic weld rod. Two polyethylene surfaces can be carefully heated to melt temperature and joined together for a superior bond. They MUST be the same grade of polyethylene though. You can join LDPE and HDPE (low density and high density polyethylene) but the bond will not be as strong. Most kayaks are HDPE. A plastic welder is best, but you can use a heat gun (larger areas) or a large magnifying lens (with dark shades and caution)
RLZerr
RLZerr - 12 years ago
@PimDonatz Awesome! What kind of welder? I've also done a number of plastic welds on other projects using a large magnifying or Fresnel lens and sunlight. And a pair of VERY dark sunglasses! Must be careful as it can quickly overheat and burn so practice on scrap.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 12 years ago
@fie1231 It's great fun! Building and sailing both. Especially when you can build things with "junk" items lying around. There's a Facebook page called "Skinny Hull Canoe and Kayak Sailing" with over 200 members. You can see lots of crafty designs. Most of the people there have done similar home projects.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 12 years ago
@masterofsurvival Keeping the kayak light is a priority to me. I wanted it simple, easy to carry and launch from anywhere. I don't think a lead keel would be a good idea myself. No need worrying about tipping in a sudden strong gust. Once used to the feel of the rig and how it handles. The quick rudder and sail control is instantly responsive on such a small craft. Strong gust, just quickly turn into the wind more or let the sail out some. I've never tipped while sailing.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 12 years ago
@masterofsurvival Building something that works from inexpensive or free stuff is half the fun. I wouldn't want to use any iron or steel, it would rust out in no time. I sail in salt water. The clip that hooks the guyline to the top of the mast to the front of the kayak completely corroded away in a couple years. It was made out of chrome plated zinc. Brass, stainless steel and aluminum are the only metals that are reliable in salt water.
Toast
Toast - 12 years ago
no centreboard???
Pim Donatz
Pim Donatz - 12 years ago
i followed your idea by welding plastic. This way i made a clamp for the ruder, and hole and foot for the mast. regards, Pim see : kayak sailing pim
Joseph Melia
Joseph Melia - 12 years ago
Great job...looks like fun too.
Cody Johnson
Cody Johnson - 12 years ago
Just like tig welding without the pretty light
gonedeepseafishing
gonedeepseafishing - 12 years ago
Like it
michael  andersen
michael andersen - 12 years ago
have done something like that and have experimented with kayaks canoes windsurfers and dinghyes and rowing boats so this video was just wonderful and showed Im not crazy all alone lol very good -keep up the good work Michael Denmark 54
Chiefman
Chiefman - 12 years ago
Nice work
Andy182w
Andy182w - 12 years ago
Great idea.
MrJoeyBoombotz
MrJoeyBoombotz - 12 years ago
I enjoyed this video a lot. Very nice work.
oldetavern
oldetavern - 12 years ago
Great idea and a well done video! Thanks for posting this :-)
Dave Robbie
Dave Robbie - 12 years ago
That really moves! Great ideas!
deltafour1212
deltafour1212 - 12 years ago
PRETTY DAMN SLICK!
redangelleo
redangelleo - 13 years ago
Great job! I love it when people invent their own freedom, and make it WORK!
Jerrod Bearden
Jerrod Bearden - 13 years ago
Have you not had leaking problems with the center board?
Arthur Steagall Condé
Arthur Steagall Condé - 13 years ago
Fantastic! easy to do and it really works...lets improve a sulution for its structural weakness at the centerboard (my sugestion)
George Lukus
George Lukus - 13 years ago
Nice!
Nicholas Noble
Nicholas Noble - 13 years ago
@RLZerr Awesome! I actually got a aluminum mast now, its 3/4" but I found out it still bends, I found a wooden dowel that fits so I shoved it in there and that did the trick.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 13 years ago
@Whitebear329 Sorry, no website anymore.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 13 years ago
@Whitebear329 Sorry, Geocities decided to bail so no details there anymore.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 13 years ago
@superdave98008 That might be a good idea. But need adequate clearance from the junk between the legs. A removable centerboard off the side attached over the top of your lap might be a better idea but cumbersome. I guess it doesn't necessarily need to be in the center to work.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 13 years ago
@dmitrioguz Yes, that's why the extra layers and welds around the center riser pipe that holds the centerboard stem. Lots of force when at speed, as well as on the mast. The centerboard has broken off a few times and had to be repaired. Usually from running aground. I always have a PFD.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 13 years ago
@nicholasnoble I inserted a wooden rake handle through the mast. Bought at Lowe's. It's still not as rigid as I'd like so if I was to do it again I'd spend some extra money and buy aluminum pipe for the mast. Ace Hardware has it.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 13 years ago
@nicholasnoble I inserted a wooden rake handle through the mast. Bought at Lowe's. It's still not as rigid as I'd like so if I was to do it again I'd spend some extra money and buy aluminum pipe for the mast. Ace Hardware has it.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 13 years ago
@zigzagchris The mast is about 8 feet. I made it that long so that it would fit inside my SUV.
Nicholas Noble
Nicholas Noble - 13 years ago
I love your design. I made a sail for my kayak too, Its a Gaff rig about 8ft tall. The only thing I'm having trouble with is reinforcing the mast. How do you keep it from flexing too much? Especially when reaching into the wind?
john darmiento
john darmiento - 13 years ago
I used your idea for the rudder but i didnt weld I screwed and glued It works great with my half moon sail check it out on my patriot sail kayak
H202
H202 - 13 years ago
Fantastic job.you are the modern day Inuit, builing stuff from what is washed up on the beach great video.
amazonhippie
amazonhippie - 13 years ago
I learned a lot more than just how to make a sail. Great video!
Scotty Thompson
Scotty Thompson - 14 years ago
It says the geocities link is no longer hosted? is there a new site?
Pedroskini
Pedroskini - 14 years ago
Wow, how cool is that ?! Great job, very ingenious.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 14 years ago
Yes, the centerboard has broken off a few times, but it was due to striking the bottom too fast or once, a submerged log. All but one time have been able to recover it and just made a new PVC stem. The PVC tube holding the centerboard snaps off, which is a bit of a safety feature as the polyethylene tube riser is stronger and reinforced with multiple welds and two layers of polyethylene. I always carry a life vest.
dixieoutlaw4x4
dixieoutlaw4x4 - 14 years ago
great job! and excellent walk thru in the video!
RLZerr
RLZerr - 14 years ago
They kayak is 10 and a half feet long. You can get a plastic welder like this one online. Google "ATV fender welder"
RLZerr
RLZerr - 14 years ago
Unstable winds have caught me off guard and have stressed the boom fitting on the mast to where it broke, thus the reinforcement. an outrigger would be nice as sitting to one side inside a kayak can get uncomfortable. I did this project as a ultra simple and cheap sailing 'yak and as long as winds are 5-10mph it works great and is a load of fun.
Brock Mclean
Brock Mclean - 14 years ago
Nice mod. I'm thinking about attempting this and it just so happens I live in Destin... maybe I'll try to get with you but I think I want some outriggers first....
consumeless
consumeless - 14 years ago
That's a really well done video, and a great project. I'll be using it as inspiration.
alienfromirth
alienfromirth - 14 years ago
Thanks for putting this up! It inspired me to hang on to my old rotomolded CD Squall and outfit the thing for sailing. Only kayak sailing I have done was when I lashed the 2 halves of my spare paddle together in a T and tied my rain parka to it...
harmsworth1
harmsworth1 - 14 years ago
Nice job, thanks for sharing.
RLZerr
RLZerr - 14 years ago
Thanks for the great ideas!
Michael Crumpton
Michael Crumpton - 14 years ago
Nice project, and really exceptional video. If you do change your rudder arrangement you might consider using a large door hinge for the pivot instead of the PVC. If you change the tiller on the rudder to a "T" and have the ropes go to the top ends of the "T" it should give you the leverage to get a sharper turn. It is quite impressive how well the boat sails!
davidworld2k6
davidworld2k6 - 14 years ago
i love it best diy vid on sail modifying

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