READ: A person floating in a tube requires very little force to pull around. If you are concerned with the tube band 'snapping' back and face-smacking someone, that isn't going to happen. Stop to consider the fact that it is possible to push around someone in a tube with only a single finger. In contrast, pulling back and stretching the band (as I show in the video) requires around 100 lbs of force. In the case of water tubing at reasonable speeds: the tube's harness, the rope, and the cheap carabiner are all being subjected to a very small amount of strain. Here is a somewhat counter-intuitive way to think about all of this: when water tubing, it might in fact be safer to use equipment that will break BEFORE a severe injury can occur from a person being yanked hard by a rope/boat. A deliberate weak link can be useful. Think of one of those breakaway lanyards. Using an expensive setup that's made to be too 'rugged' may be a classic case of over-building, to the point of a diminished return on safety. No matter how you approach this, try to be careful; it's easy to get carried away. So—especially with kids—pay close attention to the tuber, and always remain mindful of where the rope is. Also: this thing is NOT INDENDED FOR USE IN THE GRASS. That shot was just to show off how tough the device is, since the friction against the ground will cause much more resistance than any tube floating on water. However, if you must go against my advice and adapt this to an ATV: do it after (or in) the rain, when the grass is nice and long, or just use it in the snow. Also make a grass or snow tuber wear goggles, since the band could break in this case. And under no circumstances should you ever try the grass tubing thing with a kid; such would be downright irresponsible. No matter how you do any of it, I assume zero responsibility for your reckless behavior. Have fun ;) ***** Construction notes: making a slot cut in PVC: If you are confident and experienced with a table-saw, you can simply 'freehand' a rip cut (using the fence set to ½ of the pipe's outside diameter). If you do this, first try a dry run with the blade down and the saw off, just to test if you can complete the motion without twisting your wrists and thus rotating the pipe. Staying straight takes practice. A pencil line down the pipe for reference may be helpful. Also, be sure to set the blade height to just one mm above the thickness of the pipe's wall: any higher is a pointless risk. If you aren't comfortable with the freehand method, you can 'fix' the position of a PVC pipe in place with a drywall screw through the pipe that then rests against the fence or table, but this trick requires lots of consideration: 1) make sure the screw is out of the path of the blade, and 2) make sure that the screw doesn't run off the table, leaving you standing there all alone with your pipe in your hands. To go around this problem, you might try using two screws (one on each end), but that can be difficult to align, so you might want to just use a longer pipe and then keep the screw back near your hands. Simply stop the cut short, and then cut the pipe free from the sacrificial end. You might also try making a wooden jig instead: use masking tape to fasten the pipe to a 2x4, and then run the board/pipe against the fence. Keep down pressure through the end of the cut, since ½ of the tape will be cut free. If you don't have a table-saw at all, here are some alternatives: Handsaw. Oscillating cutter. Angle grinder with cutoff wheel. Rotary tool. If you use one of the last two, wear glasses; things that go in circles tend to spew melted plastic and pieces of other stuff that you don't want fused to one of your eyeballs. Tubing is more fun with two functional eyes.