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About How to avoid and get out of a broach when sailing downwind
The "How to avoid and get out of a broach when sailing downwind" video is part of the Sealing, tipps, boating category, which contains similar videos like this one.
Broaching occurs when a following wave lifts up the transom due to its large displacement and at the same time the weak bos dig in the water where lateral resistance is met and so the boat heels over and the transom overtakes the bows. With a centreboard the lateral resistance is greater low down in the water while the wave displacement up top will tend to rotate the boat to capsize it. It is related to the broaching that is mentioned in this video but instead of the rotating torque is provided by the leaning of the mast providing a torque to rotate the craft on the surface of the sea, the following wave will produce a more dangerous flip over as happens in high waves. The following wave broach can be avoided if one releases a drogue parachute or anything that may drag the boat or a large rudder which is sensitive to the quick corrections of a good skipper.
With a large very high following wave , well one cannot do much as the dynamics of the peak of waves are complex and no boat can handle it so the philosophy is to either stay in harbour or anchor down and be ready to submerge a few times.
10. comment for How to avoid and get out of a broach when sailing downwind
The primary reason for having a spinnaker up in this much wind is if you are racing, and really, the ONLY reason to be using a spinnaker.
Easing the sheet, alone, on a spinnaker does NOT spill the wind. Thus, it does NOT necessarily help your situation. You are more likely have to have to throw the sheet, or tack, loose completely to have enough effect to prevent a broach.
"Kicker" is a slang term for vang, even in Great Britain.
Cheers.
Whether people have gained experience or new to the game, the first thing to ease is the spinnaker.
If your game is on the main is properly trimmed, therefore the vang is eased.
The main trimmer should be busy in keeping the main from too much backwinding as speed increases.
When we are racing it goes in that order, even single handing.
With an experienced crew, the driver should rarely make adjustments for trim. Feeling the boat, the spinnaker trimmer is responsible for keeping the boat on its feet and the vang trimmer accelerates the boat through the waves.
Working as a team, a cadence is maintained through the puffs and waves that realizes increased speed and a smooth ride.
So in other words you have someone with their "game on" who eases the vang early ie. before easing the spinny JUST LIKE SHE SAID.
To turn the boat to leeward is to back off the wind which can result in decreasing heel or boat tilt.
20. comment for How to avoid and get out of a broach when sailing downwind
John Beasley masturbates to the Breitbart comments sections.
Sad.
So much for a society whose elevated position exists from the suffering of many.
BTW, only "rednecks" demand everyone speak american english as it comes from a lack of education and the inability to understand anything new or different.
"3 master's degrees"?? I call BS.
If you're so lazy you can't bend a little to try to understand a different accent than what you're accustomed to even attempting basket weaving at your local jr college would be too much for you.
If you, the almighty Beasley, can´t do it although it´s your native language and you have not one, but THREE masters!!?
I´m shocked!
Also if you call The Greenwich meridian UTC00 I will cock slap you in the name of Science and the Crown!
Vang sheeting is pretty much the single technique that makes a Laser dinghy remotely sailable for mere mortals (since the addition of the Turbo kit with extra "powerful" vang).
It is not a technique to be used on a yacht with a stiff mast - they have other controls to bend the mast and flatten the main (as indeed you've pointed out: backstays, baby stays, running backstays etc). In fact (for anyone new to sailing reading this) if you try wrenching on enough vang to have any real effect on the flatness of the main upwind on a yacht you'll probably end up breaking the vang or the boom (especially if you forget to ease the vang before bearing away and letting off the main sheet). So, in short "Mordecai" is very right in everything he says: don't use the vang on big boats to flatten the main upwind.
Many of the types of boats I am talking about (dinghies in particular) do not have a backstay at all, which leaves only the vang to bend the mast. The masts on these types of boats are usually extremely flexible and extremely fractional (lots of bendy "freestanding" mast up above the forestay and shrouds).
My comment was simply a response to a question that "artie" had regarding something he'd heard - it doesn't really apply to the sort of boat in the video and doesn't apply downwind (apart from the bit about what happens if you dump too much vang downwind possibly causing a windward roll - that applies to all boats).
The boom vang mostly controls the roach. When it's on really hard it does flatten out the bottom of the main a small percentage, but that is what the outhaul is for. If one is using the boom vang to put bend in the mast, the result is what I call 'groaning' where the rig is under unnecessary pressure. Similar to when people are somehow convinced (Poms) to keep a spinnaker pole up high when on a close reach - not a good feeling, or performance.
NOTE: be careful to not over hoist the spinnaker only to ease the backstay afterwards. As the mast straightens it puts more pressure on the spinnaker hoist at the top and can cause 'problems'. Ease the spinnaker hoist as the excitement calms a bit THEN ease the backstay and readjust the spinnaker hoist.
Three books I recommend for the overall advancing of your talent:
Royce's Sailing Illustrated
Heavy Weather Sailing
Sail Power
Dinghy and skiff sailors in some kinds of boats prefer flattening the main using the vang since it doesn't pull the leech tight like cranking on the mainsheet does (which in turn allows a very flexible top-mast section to do what it does best and bend/lay off to leeward in the gusts).
That said though, once the boom is eased out well over the side of the boat and you're sailing downwind, then it's a different mode of sailing: you're steering the boat like a bicycle (steering for balance, where you bear away whenever you want to stand the boat back upright - and pointing up will only lay the boat over to leeward more - which is the opposite of how you steer going upwind)
In the "downwind / reaching" mode the vang controls twist more than anything else. Easing vang will let the top of the sail lay off, easing pressure near the top of the mast where it's laying the boat over to leeward most).
In fact, easing vang downwind is so good at standing a boat back upright that if you ease too much in a tender boat you can end up with the boat rolling right back over to windward and wanting to steer itself into a gybe! (try dumping too much vang in a laser while you're blasting off downwind in a good blow sometime) ;)
yes i think you are right chord is really a minor thing, other than a sail with lots of area but low chord will probably stall sooner but will have less drag. and due to the shape it will be higher so it will gather more wind near the top of the mast but at the same time it will knock the boat over.
Looking into sails, there really are only 2 variables that have a big impact: angle of attack, and camber (depth & position of "belly"). Angle of attack determines both max power, but also max drag. Theoretically, you could do with a totally flat sail. Flying barndoors in a storm are living proof...;)
However, without any camber or curvature pressure gradients soon are so extreme, that laminar flow separates at the lee side close to the luff of the sail, leading to a stalled condition.
Curvature allows for a gentle pressure gradient, thereby avoiding the stall.
Unfortunately, with a flexible sail the curvature also limits how much angle of attack is possible without the luff of the sail starting to flog. So in order to point higher (when you go upwind), you have no choice other than to flatten the sail, allowing you to increase the AoA. It's all a compromise thing...
Going on a beam reach, you are not constricted in that way and may use maximum AoA, combined with maximum curvature. Unless you want to depower the whole sail, were you would decrease AoA and decrease curvature.
as I was thinking about this earlier it occurred to me that the way you have described it the vang alters the "chord" of the airfoil
10-4 thanks for the info
The latter effect is what helps to reduce heeling, as it decreases the angle of attack in the upper parts of the sail. And angle of attack (not camber, a common misconception) is the variable that has the greatest impact on the amount of power ("lift") that any airfoil produces.
it would seem like easing the vang will put more belly in the sail at least until all tension is gone
Flattening the main is mainly achieved by use of the outhaul, cunningham (or halyard) and backstay tension, especially in fractional riggs.