Sail Life - Preparing the engine compartment for paint & Bosch GEX 150 turbo + GAS 35 - DIY boat
Sailing 6 years ago 24,569 views
Feel free to check out my other videos. All videos listed chronology: http://vid.io/xov5 If you new to the channel check out the introduction playlist: http://vid.io/xov7 Come along as I prepare the engine compartment for paint and take a look at two new awesome tools. GEX 150 Turbo: https://www.bosch-professional.com/dk/da/products/gex-150-turbo-0601250760 GAS 35 M: https://www.bosch-professional.com/dk/da/products/gas-35-m-afc-06019C3100 Slibeblade: https://www.bosch-professional.com/dk/da/m480-best-for-wood-and-paint-2593025-ocs-ac/ The Bosch GEX 150 Turbo and the GAS 35 were provided by Bosch free of charge. *** Links *** Sail Life on Patreon: http://bit.ly/SailLifeOnPatreon Sail Life on Facebook: http://bit.ly/SailLifeOnFacebook Sail Life on Twitter: http://bit.ly/SailLifeOnTwitter Sail Life Shop US: (Use this if you want items shipped from the US) https://shop.spreadshirt.com/saillife/ Sail Life Shop EU: (Use this if you want items shipped from Europe) https://shop.spreadshirt.dk/saildotlife/ Donations for the sandpaper fund: https://www.paypal.me/saillife
I have seen one channel by accident check mark off options by accident, once was not able to view from mobile device.
Finally got to watch all of it though.
I don't think there's a way to remove the diesel impregnated in that plywood piece. There will always be a residual quantity there.
About the diesel soaked plywood, if you paint it and the paint doesn't stick, the insulation will not adhere either. I don't know how to get diesel out of the plywood. I would probably cut out the plywood and replace it, at least the section with the diesel.
10. comment for Sail Life - Preparing the engine compartment for paint & Bosch GEX 150 turbo + GAS 35 - DIY boat
20. comment for Sail Life - Preparing the engine compartment for paint & Bosch GEX 150 turbo + GAS 35 - DIY boat
All I can think is route it out shallow and epoxy veneer back in. Marine ply wood shouldn't be effected past the first layer due to the glue. I've not had luck covering oil on anything. I cant think wood would be more friendly here.
Also not friendly on paint is spray tack... that stuff will peel paint. So be careful if you are spray tacking the sound proofing in.
30. comment for Sail Life - Preparing the engine compartment for paint & Bosch GEX 150 turbo + GAS 35 - DIY boat
remove plywood from boat
try to air dry it with warm air
soak in petrol for around 18 hours
with a lighted match, toss onto plywood and run
Good Luck,
greeting from Germany pal!
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I have used it with excent results in just a few weeks just not on wood
50. comment for Sail Life - Preparing the engine compartment for paint & Bosch GEX 150 turbo + GAS 35 - DIY boat
Watching someone else do it CURSES it... :-)
Du kan ikke få diesel ud af træ
Men tag din fræser og fræs ind til friskt træ sæt en " lap" i, så er du også fri for diesel lugten til sommer.
Og angående den lille "hylde" skær det dårlige stykke ud og sæt et nyt stykke i,.
It dose weaken the plywood just a tad though...
What I would like to know is ... when did they stop supporting their own product (Google Chrome) , which is my browser of choice!!!
Could someone from the "Google Tube" tech department please explain why 360 p is the max resolution available?
Cheers Eric
The sanding nets look amazing - i couldn't believe you were able to sand without a mask in that small space. i am waiting for your review but I fairly certain my next tool purchase will be Bosch :)
100. comment for Sail Life - Preparing the engine compartment for paint & Bosch GEX 150 turbo + GAS 35 - DIY boat
will block Sail Life until game has concluded
It has been great watching you restore your boat. I am getting ready to start on a similar adventure and have learned quite a few tricks from you. When we get our boats in the water, and find ourselves in the same Caribbean anchorage, the drinks are on me. Cheers!
Regarding the plywood, think the diesel has affected the structure of the wood in at the least the outer/upper ply(s) hence the sanding residue - when I had a similar issue in the engine bay of my boat I marked the affected area in a rectangle and used a broad chisel to lift the outer 3mm or so of plys that came away easily, then cut and epoxied in a thin piece of ply and then knocked the surface back with a belt sander. Was pretty quick and I also wasn't too worried about surface perfection because I also just wanted to paint it to give a clean/smooth surface for the self adhesive sound deadening foam that went on top. BB
I would soak the area with naptha and then use Pig Mat to absorb both the naptha and diesel back out.
It's amazing stuff for absorbing oils.
Pig Mat comes in two types. One that will absorb only oil base liquids but not water and another that absorbs water base chemical but not oil.
Very handy to have on hand.
Can’t wait to see the result of the engine bay , it will be immaculate as usual I will bet hehe
BUT, what you could do is drill into the ply (several places) and see how far the saturation is. If not too deep, you could rout it out and epoxy fill the void. If really deep, rout out, fill with a thin piece of ply and epoxy.
For my own peace of mind, I must caution you against using a flammable degreaser in an enclosed space like that. A concentration of fumes can lead to a spontaneous flash fire, which, based on personal experience, would be a very, very bad thing.
Having dealt with diesel fuel for years, I've never been able to wash it out of my clothes when I've become soaked in diesel many times. I end up throwing away my apparel. I hope you do find a way.
You're always positive and able to figure out the impossible.... (core, soaking wet this and that) Good luck, I'm waiting for your solution.
Stay positive!
Cheers
Carl
Like which one will you be taking with you when you go sailing and, even, which one could you take... space and power needs related
I can't wait to see you float Athena! Keep up the good (hard) work and thanks for sharing it with us!
If you thin your paint it will penetrate into the wood better, even if the paint is thin use the proper thinner and thin it some more, we have all painted a piece of wood and the end grain needed a second coat to look the same as the rest of the wood, its pretty much the same, you thin it, it will "soak" in like a sponge. You will have to coat it many times to get the same look, but it should give you a long lasting job.
Dan R
My concern is the diesel fume in the wall. Since the aft cabin will be your`s. You may find yourself with diesel fumes while sleeping. Why not replace the damage section. The aft cabin is not finish anyway. Placing drip container under all filters would also be a good thing to prevent this sort of thing.
Fire works to get fuels out of wood.
Work really well.
Granted it'd burn the wood as well, but you'd be sure and certain it is all out.
Seriously, I doubt you will get much diesel out of the wood. If it isn't replaced, it will pretty much stay there. If it isn't causing a smell issue, or structural issues, I'd not worry overmuch and just cover it with sound and heat insulation. iirc you mentioned you were relocating the filter system, right? Maybe a "wash" of very thin oil based paint would cover it over, but I don't think that would work well with your other primer.
Good luck with whatever you choose to do.
There is not enough diesel in there to ignite so just heat the wood until it begins to brown.
I used this method on my narrow-boat.
As for removing diesel from plywood - I do know that fire works really well at least with the petrol soaked plywood - it does remove the plywood in the process unfortunately.
Another thought on your diesel contaminated plywood - can you paint it with an oil based paint, then paint over it with your primer??
........... And btw. - remove all rusty metals from your boat. Rust weaken a fiberglass and even cause decomposition. You are doing very good job , so far.
Straight from AvE sight, I woud say you sold yourself out, taking that Bosch Tools *cough*industrywhore*cough*.
But since it's you, working all weekend, every weekend, I gotta cut you some slack for taking that tools that are not just for testing, but save you some time and making life a tiny bit easyer.
So congrats on that new hardware. Keep it up!
https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/deks-olje-d1/
~ Greetings from the Netherlands ~ I like your videos very much ~
As for the diesel in the wood, as others have suggested there is likely a primer solution that has been formulated just for this very issue. Now is the time to talk to your local marine paint representative and expert. They will likely have a product they can recommend which will be able to prime the oily plywood and encapsulate it while sticking well without peeling. Then you can cover that with another primer such as 2-part epoxy before using whatever it is you plan on using for your final coat here in the engine room. I'm sure you are not the first person to need to paint oily plywood on a boat so an easy primer solution is likely to be on the market.
Giving free product advise and support is the job of these higher-up paint representatives to help with these questions. Professional painters even use this resource when they have questions or issues themselves. Maybe you might even make a contact there, who might be interested in working out another sponsorship deal with Sail Life. That would be awesome. Once you get one real sponsorship deal like the one from Bosch the ice has been broken and other companies will then take you more seriously when considering sponsoring you too. You have a great vlog with a ton of active subscribers. You richly deserve to reap all the benefits of your hard work and dedication here and now.
Finally, that plywood rot doesn't look too bad and seems to be localized in that small corner. I personally would probably just cut it back to good wood, taper it out, and then fiberglass it back to rebuild and reinforce the shelf area and tab it back in securely. It surely will be much easier and faster than trying to replace the whole piece, and it will be a stronger repair than it was when new. Once it is fared in and everything is painted it will be invisible and better than new.
item you would give consideration to ? Much easier than lashing a bunk board to a spinnaker pole ah the good old days.
How lucky are we not???? Hahaha
I prefer Bosch because of the ability to find spare parts easily and not too expensively. They last fairly well in production use and don't just fall apart. I could easily be a fanboy although I'm too cheap to buy the high-quality tools when the low-grade stuff works OK and I'm not using it that heavily in personal home/boat use.
Most impressive: I still could get ANY spare part for my more than 30 year old GST 85 PE during a recent rebuild; they offer single screws in OEM quality ... That's the way You do business: for people like me, 100 bucks more for a new one isn't important as long as I know I could keep it going strong for decades with this sort of spare part policy. Not even Makita has it to that extend. So: two options to buy a keeper, with Bosch (blue = professional) one of them - don't think twice, no matter what price. (End fan rant)
best regards
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-75236.html
good content
I wonder if cutting out a few sections with a large hole saw and replacing them with new material would retain the structural strength component of that bulkhead?
There is so much to be learned from the disassembly of a boat.
There is nothing that will remove diesel from wood without destroying the wood. Wasted effort.
I would like to ask about methods.
Please don't take as a derogatory it is not. It is understood it is a choice.
Would it have been easier to just gut the interior of the boat and rebuild from scratch?
just in a labor sense. I am sure it would be more expensive because nothing is saved.
But in what you have when finished it would all be new. Which is good and bad depending on sentimentality or originality.
Nothing of the original would remain.
Coming along nicely.
Sorry about your bad luck with that wet piece of plywood, but you really didn't think it would be easy.
It IS a boat and nothing is really easy there.
Congrats on the new toys. . errrrr. . . tools. Happy sanding, may your new shop vac suck forever.
Thanks for sharing,
John
Not criticising at all I've been watching with interest from the beginning and in my opinion this is one of the best channels on YouTube.
He made a video on the cost of the refit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PWgeH_j3tc
Stock up on some extra filters for your vacuum. I don't think you will be sanding any drywall compound or something that makes extremely fine dust, but you might want to buy one HEPA filter anyway.
You need a sanding adapter for your multi-tool ! They work very well and will eliminate a lot of hand sanding.
I know it is not your "style", but if the only part of that plywood that is rotting is that one spot, cut it out and make a patch. If you can get a 45° cut on the part you are removing and make a reasonable close cut on the plug including the bevel, you can just epoxy it in place and save a lot of time.
Oh, you meant for the girlfriend. Sorry, nevermind...
Used for years to remove 100 year accumulations of oil from gunstocks. Oven cleaners work too but not as well. Easy-off brand in the US is what I've used.
Works fine in browser.
Respectfully,
John Maguire
Seattle
Madz, get on the stick and fix this.
And there is nothing wrong with temporary janky setups during projects... It is when the janky setup is still in place a year later that you start to have 'issues'.
Also, with rotten plywood, if you don't care about what it looks like, you can basically inject thinned epoxy into it, rather than tearing it up. You just drill some small holes in the wood you want to treat, mix some epoxy, thin it with some acetone, draw it into a disposable needle and quickly inject it into the wood. It can get messy, but it will also structurally save wood that is rotting and essentially turn it into the strength of epoxied fiberboard (which isn't bad). For best results, inject straight acetone into the wood first, to make sure it soaks in well.
I'd talk to your paint supplier and enquire as to a chemical method of getting the primer to adhere. I'm sure they've got some tricks that they employ.