4 Simple Ocean Observations to Improve Your Surfing
Surf 6 years ago 200,426 views
In chapter 1 of the how to surf series, we learn how to read the waves and the 4 things to that determine the shape and power of the waves we surf. We learn about these important factors: - How wind affects the local texture of the water - How swell is created and what numbers we want to see in the surf forecast. - Why tides are important in shaping the waves. - The sea floor, known as bathymetry, and why it is perhaps the most influential. http://thesurfrat.com https://www.instagram.com/the.surf.rat/ https://www.facebook.com/the.surf.rat/ In the next video we'll get into the water and look at paddling, a vital technique that will get you catching more waves!
10. comment for 4 Simple Ocean Observations to Improve Your Surfing
20. comment for 4 Simple Ocean Observations to Improve Your Surfing
30. comment for 4 Simple Ocean Observations to Improve Your Surfing
A couple years ago, I shared this same info with my son & he does so much better in the water now. Sharing this video with him for our next trip.
50. comment for 4 Simple Ocean Observations to Improve Your Surfing
Eventually learning to swim, surf, sail, scuba dive, oceanography, meteorology and navigation.
All these skills and knowledge will serve them well throughout their lives.
Enjoy.
Would have been great to cover Surface Wind Wave Generation; Fetch (area), Frequency (wind speed), Duration (time).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave
Breaking Waves, in general, waves break in a depth, one half it's (wave) length. (actually a little swallower)
Longshore Transport Current, Rips, Shoreline Water Displacement.
How much time you have depends on which you choose!
No they don't. Many do though as long as they are out for long enough. Think lung fish, mid skippers, flying fish. I am sue there are others. Have you never seen a fish jump out of the water because it is being chased by a predator because ? What happens to them ? They certainly don't die. Have you ever seen a fisherman ctch a fish and throw it back ? Do those fish die? Of course they don't.
a re-entry
when you see a closeout section coming
bottom turn
go up the face
do a floater
on the breaking wave
and come down with the
close out
it's a 1960 move
a rio
Close outs are real good for ,practicing your rio.s
And or floaters .