A surfer and a scientist teamed up to create the perfect wave

Surf’s up at an artificial California lake thanks to a slab of steel, cutting-edge fluid dynamics, and supercomputers. Learn more: http://www.sciencemag.org/news/2017/11/surfer-and-scientist-teamed-create-perfect-wave Special thanks: Alex Poirot

A surfer and a scientist teamed up to create the perfect wave sentiment_very_dissatisfied 12

Surf 2 years ago 215,517 views

Surf’s up at an artificial California lake thanks to a slab of steel, cutting-edge fluid dynamics, and supercomputers. Learn more: http://www.sciencemag.org/news/2017/11/surfer-and-scientist-teamed-create-perfect-wave Special thanks: Alex Poirot

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Most popular comments
for A surfer and a scientist teamed up to create the perfect wave

Brett O'Keefe
Brett O'Keefe - 2 years ago
If a surfer falls, is there any danger of the foil running them over? I suspect not, but curious how that risk was addressed? Every surfer in the world covets a chance to surf this wave. Kelly and his associates have proven science and personal dedication can deliver sucess!
See One, Do One
See One, Do One - 2 years ago
What if you're goofy and not regular?
bsmb091011 B
bsmb091011 B - 2 years ago
Student Doctor Adam like a slut the wave goes both ways
Andrew Flynn
Andrew Flynn - 2 years ago
Cool to think about this in comparison to the forces that cause waves in the first place.
barney the dinosaur
barney the dinosaur - 2 years ago
I remember seeing JOB looking at a small scale wedging wave that he may create. can't remember where it was from though
IJ OP
IJ OP - 2 years ago
Wow gnarly man!
le-math 924
le-math 924 - 2 years ago
All the study in math and physics are...for this? Hell yea!!!
NorthOCkook
NorthOCkook - 2 years ago
le-math 924 fluid mechanics is still somewhat uncharted territory when it comes to calculus based physics. As far as I know, experts still use empirical equations to model open channel flow
Kevin Harry
Kevin Harry - 2 years ago
That's cool except kelly built it like a year ago
Iago Lima
Iago Lima - 2 years ago
foda!
Steve Deasy
Steve Deasy - 2 years ago
The "Perfect Wave" would never be made by a machine. Jaws? Mavericks?
bsmb091011 B
bsmb091011 B - 2 years ago
Steve Deasy jaws and mavericks get big but far from perfect

10. comment for A surfer and a scientist teamed up to create the perfect wave

W. Martin
W. Martin - 2 years ago
Lots of moving parts and energy to create that wave. I bet it's at least $100 a wave.
Marco Wollank
Marco Wollank - 2 years ago
Sounds like a job for Elon Musk from Tesla.
The Dave
The Dave - 2 years ago
I had read somewhere that he uses solar to power this thing but I don't think that would be practical. I assume it would take somewhere near the power of a train to keep that wedge moving at that speed, if they are using solar it would take many acres and many hours to store enough energy for one wave. Would love to know if my guesstimates are right, they have be taking power from the grid.
Миша Шевченко
Миша Шевченко - 2 years ago
Now we can surf in the middle of a desert. Welcome to the future people!
Maris Molotov
Maris Molotov - 2 years ago
Dang why is this comment section so hostile?
da- mith
da- mith - 2 years ago
shut up
Noel Whittle
Noel Whittle - 2 years ago
regular Science Magazine channel subscribers need to be aware that this concept is considered by many surfers (mainly those who are blessed with epic surf close to where they live) to be heresy, blasphemy against the sea god Huey, and a crime against nature.
So, its going to get a bit feral.
magentawave
magentawave - 2 years ago
Noel Whittle I have lived and surfed in places with some of the best surf (Kauai, Maui, Santa Cruz and San Diego) and I'd give my left nut to surf that wave for an afternoon!
Kevin Harry
Kevin Harry - 2 years ago
I seriously doubt that "many" surfers worship the sea god Huey. I also think that anybody "blessed with epic surf" would be very open to a new type of epic wave, because it allows more people to experience the joy they get from surfing those nice waves. Unless of course you're just a total dick and you want other people to be unhappy while you are having the time of your life surfing.
Waxfoot
Waxfoot - 2 years ago
Noel Whittle bullshit, it takes nothing away from your surfing experience, and opens more options should you wish to try it
Legend O Nor
Legend O Nor - 2 years ago
No need for adventures anymore when you can artificially create the experiences...




fun.......
Alex V
Alex V - 2 years ago
I hope everybody thinks like you!!!
LiamsMusic78
LiamsMusic78 - 2 years ago
Cool. Fuck my ass, Tony Hawk
DarkTrunksGeorgeSim
DarkTrunksGeorgeSim - 2 years ago
I think Richard Dawkins put it best when he said: "SCIENCE: IT WORKS... BITCHES!"
Jelly Donut
Jelly Donut - 2 years ago
Looks like art to me
Charles Waters
Charles Waters - 2 years ago
Go Cocoa! Apply that knowledge Slater!
sotijas
sotijas - 2 years ago
how much does it cost to run it?
tripp
tripp - 2 years ago
there are plenty of real waves out there. Don't live near a population hub
mercotui
mercotui - 2 years ago
wow, yeah, i'm sorry. The internet is no place for bad jokes! Especially youtube comments are a very serious medium that i defile with my horrible acts of humor
Markus Broyles
Markus Broyles - 2 years ago
OH ! mercotui ~ That is so very funny... Where did ya get that PHD in Comedy ?
TrumpU Gradguate
TrumpU Gradguate - 2 years ago
I think what mercotui means is the surfer's combined weight presses down on the waves, compressing them and making them smaller. It does kind of make sense.
mercotui
mercotui - 2 years ago
I aspire to be half the troll Ken M is, he is a god
MR SK1LLFUL
MR SK1LLFUL - 2 years ago
wat
Travis Heinicke
Travis Heinicke - 2 years ago
Your Ken M is showing...
mercotui
mercotui - 2 years ago
no im saying the waves are over surfed, and we need to stop doing that & give nature time to generate more waves, so that we can enjoy them in the future
MR SK1LLFUL
MR SK1LLFUL - 2 years ago
He was saying that the waves that break on man-made features like Jetties and Artificial Surfing Reefs are man-made waves. Also, He wasn't saying the swells in the ocean are man-made.
Dane Johns
Dane Johns - 2 years ago
Andrew Smith didn't sound sarcastic. Sounded dumb.
Andrew Smith
Andrew Smith - 2 years ago
pretty sure he was being sarcastic
Dane Johns
Dane Johns - 2 years ago
mercotui please explain to me how an influx of surfers has "depleted" naturally occurring waves. Waves exist with or without humans riding them. If you understood anything about surfing you would realize that you sound like a tard
Josh L
Josh L - 2 years ago
mercotui can you explain how an influx of surfers would cause naturally occurring ocean waves to change at all? why would there be less waves?
mercotui
mercotui - 2 years ago
hhm idk, but considering the huge influx of surfers in the past 50 years has massively depleted the number of naturally occurring waves, so i think its great that we can now create them in a sustainable manner
Neo
Neo - 2 years ago
less than it would costs to run the entire ocean, obviously

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