I am a life long surfer. Growing up in the 70's rarely would you see an older guy out surfing. Older as in over 30. A few but 40 and 50 not many. Yes, funny as it sounds but true. Surfing back then was still a young man's sport. As I approached middle age (45). I was beginning to surf less. I was told about the possibility of depression, and depression started to set in. Later as I approached 50 I refound my passion for surfing. It was actually something that could help me with depression along with avoidance of many other middle age illnesses. I took back my passion and it's made a world of difference. Now I see many surfers in their 40s and 50s. It's very inspiring. Surfing gives you stoke. Stoke, a profound word that describes the feeling surfing gives you. How many people are fortunate enough to be able to say that. Yes, there's no doubt surfing can be an agent for healing. I am proof of that.

Carly I was blessed to be raised surfing on the North Shore of Oahu. I'ma veteran with a disability. Your story is touching. The connection between the Universe, nature and soul cant be put in words .its a energy, a jedi force a spiritual drug... That only a surfer knows.

I'm such a fan of yours Carly!! Well Done!! 

Carly! this is amazing! i got goosebumps several times! so proud of you!