The Best (As in Worst) Surfing Wipeouts of 2015
Surf 8 years ago 143,870 views
Wipeouts never get old. Performance surfing grows by leaps and bounds every year, but eating shit has essentially remained the same for decades. But we never, ever tire of watching it and hearing the stories behind it. Because, and here's the thing: surfers are generally horrible when it comes to talking about their own surfing. But they are amazing when recounting almost dying. Not sure why, but it's true. Greatest Wipeouts is a Surfline original series showcasing death-defying surfing wipeouts, near-death experiences and heaviest waves of all time. Subscribe: http://www.youtube.com/user/surfline?sub_confirmation=1 Check out all the videos in the Greatest Wipeouts series here: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLpi1EAR1PAPf8AnSfjy5ZzPromxdpDwGY Live streaming surf cams, surf reports, forecasts, videos, photos, travel information, and up to the minute news. Surfline premium members get access to long range forecasts and unlimited HD cam streams from around the globe.
10. comment for The Best (As in Worst) Surfing Wipeouts of 2015
GET PITTED!!!!!!
I fully believe no one can survive a 5 BIG WAVE wipe out unless they have gone through extensive and vigorous training specially for massive wipeouts. The waves were probably around 14ft-16ft with 18 footers occasionally and a 4 wave hold down almost killed me. Imagine those waves at 20ft? Fucking forget it. I wouldn't be typing this out. I've been to Teahpoo countess times. I haven't been back since.
And that my friends is why you never take the first wave!
I've been surfing for 10 years and never did something so fucking awful happen to me. Oh but the cunt that cut me off? He was fine. It's one thing to wipe out because of a mistake you made. But I did because this little shit thought I would somehow have enough room behind him. (because what even is surfers etiquette, am I right?)
20. comment for The Best (As in Worst) Surfing Wipeouts of 2015
MOTHER NATURE BATS LAST ! ! ! !
You definitely took "it" further than I and in a better time period
Although I never reached your level, in my 4 years of the north shore I was able to push my personal limits further than I ever dreamed. Not three trips over the falls..... but scared and laughing at the same time. A form of hysteria, were you're laughing and nothing is funny.....just so intense that your mind is overwhelmed. Thanks for sharing your experiences in a way that made me feel like I was there too.
The measure of a good fun wipeout seems like: three times over the falls finishing with a look at the next wave tossing right in front of you. Those days were probably max 16 feet, but you generally called it 12. unlike now, when 16 feet is 25 and 20, 60.
Pipeline was good on those days and years when no one was there, no crowd, no camera, but a brother and a friend or two. Getting barreled on 2/3 of the waves, firehosed out. Once when a Japanese camera crew showed up (there was no Japanese surfing at the time - only boards literally bolted on Tokyo cars), the interviewer asked (and you could tell he did not have enough english to understand any answer) "how do you feel?"
I said if I never live another day, this will have been enough.
But the reason was in great part, because it was not a crazy hating crowd, just some brothers living life, clean with a clean empty beach.
Bigger wipeouts in bigger waves at other places, with foam enough that when one finally surfaces, you have to have air, and inhale the foa, coughing until you have to hold your breaththrough the next; but the bad ones were always the 4-6 foot waves into 2-3 feet or less water (not Pipeline. just some other places where coral heads and mussels surfaced) with face-smashes and stitches.
Enjoy your motorsports and fistpumping. Surfing's not about that - it's proper humility and no fate. Heart is the only thing you pump. CUrious, the safety . . . .
Because you will never know me, I can tell about nearly being blown alone across the southern ocean, making my choices about life - no one on the black bouldered shore. You don't need witnesses to surf, and maybe it's better without.
Did you ever notice how those gay little colored & numbered jerseys look like imitation football "heroes?" Ever noticed how cradled you feel with the motorized insurance constantly in your thoughts, severing you forever from reality? You will never laugh and puke at the same time, and that is a poor fate.