Tropical Fish: 10 Tips
Tropical fishing 8 years ago 347,316 views
Ten tips that can help establish and maintain a successful African Cichlid tank. Taken from some hard won experience. A big shout out to the following YouTube channels that have been very helpful to me: KG Tropicals, Pond Guru, Jay Wilson, Lou9294, Cichlid Madman, Mbuna Marcus, Steve Poland, Robert Lee, IFG, HalfMan HalfCichlid, robOzwrld and those I know I missed (sorry). Resources: How to acclimate: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDq7IRwcASQ&nohtml5=False and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glR8qAE3CP0&nohtml5=False PondGuru "Pimp Your Canister": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsAmSD3wVbg Canister set up Tips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIQCbFmSNJM Good web reference: www.cichlid-forum.com FaceBook pages: Tank Talk, Cichlid Nation, Cichlid Insanity, Fish Tank Talk More videos from my channel that you might enjoy: Something funny, "Cichlids are Crack!" https://youtu.be/QXHbivlow8A More funny: "African Cichlids - 5 Reasons Why You SHOULD NOT Get Into this Hobby!" https://youtu.be/1nczLCEa7Cg Canister Filter Tips: "Canister Cleaning & Filter Media Tips" https://youtu.be/SIQCbFmSNJM Water Change Tips: "Water Change Day" https://youtu.be/8xrQSYA7JtU Defeating Ich: "African Cichlids & Ich - How I Won the Battle!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ma2K_kMUqOY I now have a Facebook page for my YouTube fish friends: "Ben O'Cichlid" at: https://www.facebook.com/groups/346953655693983/ I'm also on Instagram: "ben.o.cichlid" Never forget: YOU ROCK!!!
Thanks again, you've gained a new subscriber :)
Peace!
Why would one person saying something that is contrary to just about everyone else mean we should listen to the one person? I agree, watch tons of video and read and research, but remember; anyone can put up a video on YouTube and present themselves as an expert. It's up to the viewer to use some common sense and judgement.
But ultimately, you're right, the advice you follow must be your own.
10. comment for Tropical Fish: 10 Tips
With a 125 you could go with Haps and Peacocks or go all Mbuna. Good luck, it's a fun adventure.
20. comment for Tropical Fish: 10 Tips
I have two very large convict cichlids that look very similar. I'm a novice and trying to learn. thanks for all your tips as well as the lead on sites and forums to learn from.
much appreciated <3
Thanks for watching and good luck in the hobby.
Even when they are eating great you're still going to have waste in the gravel. The only real solution for that is vacuuming. If you had sand you could run some powerheads low in the tank and that would suspend everything and let the filters suck it up. I do that that in my 135 with a sand bottom and hardly ever have to vacuum. With gravel, because of the space between the rocks, you will always have to vacuum.
30. comment for Tropical Fish: 10 Tips
1. Don't overfeed
2. Stay on a regular maintenance schedule that includes filter service, vacuuming the substrate, water changes (I suggest that you keep a log book where you record what and when so you can track changes and keep on your schedule)
3. Use something in your filter that "polishes" your water like Pinky Floss, Poly-fil (untreated crib batting available in fabric stores) and/or a chemical polisher like Seachem Purigen and/or Boyd Enterprises ChemiPure products (I suggest that you set up your filters so that any chemical filtration products are touched last as the water returns to your tank)
4. Be sure that your filters are turning your water over 5 to 10 times per hour. For example, if you have a 50 gallon tank, your filters should be 250 to 500 gph (keeping in mind that the rated gph of your filter will go down when you put media in the unit).
I hope that helps.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the kind words, much appreciated!
Tank and stand, will it be new or used? What kind of lighting, substrate, decor, background, etc. Then there's filtration. HOB, canister, sponge, sump??? Media, inexpensive like scrubbers and pumice or high end like MarinePure or Biohome??? And we haven't even started talking about fish. Would you be stocking with young juvies or colored up adults? Too many factors for a simple answer.
On the cheap, maybe $200 (used tank, a couple of HOB or sponge filters, gravel substrate, juvie fish) all the way to $1,200 with high end new tank, stand, sump and stocked with 5 - 10 colored up males.
What to do?
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Thanks for watching and commenting. It's appreciated.
50. comment for Tropical Fish: 10 Tips
75 gal
seachem prime
seachem cichild lake salt
fluval 306
temp 78-80
thanks for the info ;)
Thanks for the great tips!!
That being said, there certainly is a lot of variety among African Cichlids that you will have plenty to choose from.
Thanks for watching.
What is the size of your tank? Are there a lot of nooks, caves and hiding spots?
I appreciate you stopping by my channel!
100. comment for Tropical Fish: 10 Tips
Filtration, how often you do water changes, filter maintenance, all those things will impact how many fish you can keep in there. Personally, I pick up 15 - 20 nice young ones and let them grow up in there.
When filling from a hose from tap to tank you dose for the full volume of the tank (not just for the amount that is being added).
Good luck with African Cichlids. They are challenging but very beautiful.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
If you don't mind the sound of water, a good HOB filter (hang on back) would do the trick and they are easy to clean.
If you're pH needs buffering, go with crushed coral or aragonite as a substrate to help raise pH.
Go to Jehmco.com and get an Eheim-Jaeger 200 watt heater on sale. You'll be set to go.
I'll keep the videos coming and I thank you for the encouragement.
Yes, I feed my fry / juvies twice a day and I feed the adult fish in the 135 once a day.
That's good on the aggression. Another reason not to mess with things. More fish will shake up the territories.
I'm curious, what is your current pH? I ask because most African Cichlid keeper are trying to raise pH, not lower it. Ideal pH should be around 7.8 - 8.2. Where is yours at?
Good luck.
The number of fish depends on the type of fish, filtration, and the maintenance schedule you're going to stick to.
With an Fluval FX6 or a couple SunSun 704B's, monthly canister maintenance and twice a week water changes, you could support a lot of fish in a 90 gal. That's a big time and $ commitment.
How many fish? Just a guess, with some rocks and cave work you could put, IMO, 25 - 30 Mbuna. However, Peacocks get bigger and Haps even bigger (some too big for a 90 gal), so with less rockwork maybe 20 Peacocks or 15 haps. All just my opinion and you should research each fish. The next guy will tell you 35 Haps...
Support fish...synodontis catfish. I have clown loaches but they're strictly speaking a soft water fish. I've also had success with green plecos. Both the pleco and the clowns get huge and would eventually need a new home.
Regarding water changes, get a python, not an aqueon. The python is better quality. Dose your water conditioner for the full 90 gallons, adding it as you are refilling the tank. Buckets are too much work.
Good luck and have fun.
I once saw a video of a flowerhorn doing tricks. One very smart fish.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching!
The 60 gal. was purchased from a local tank maker, I think they're called "Master Tanks" (not entirely sure). I wanted black silicone, otherwise I think most tanks are pretty good. My 135 is an old tank that I resealed with black silicone. You can see it in my newer videos.
Thanks for watching.
I often re-visit videos from other YouTubers and I'll get something different out of the second viewing because I've gained more experiences to compare things to.
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel.
Thanks for watching.
Regarding the chewing ... the only thing that I can think of is a that you're a bit short on oxygen. If you were real low they would be at the top gasping, but you can also be a little low and they will not go to the top but still have to work a little harder to get the oxygen that they need.
What are you doing currently to break up surface water tension in the tank? Filter outputs? Power heads? Bubblers? Let me know and I'll help if I can.
You might also want to tap the knowledge available at Facebook group pages, like my group, "Ben O'Cichlid" or "The Aquatic Lounge" (Jay Wilson's group), "IFG Tips & Tricks" (Eaven Alexander's, "IFG" group) and Tank Talk (John Hudson's group / KGTropicals on Youtube).
Have a look at my Electochromis Molimo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6M-ks50bPQ
Sub to me as well
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Do a little research on them would be my first suggestion. You might have to keep him alone or rehome him to be able to have other fish.
Regarding filtration, try to go with 10 times tank volume. In other words, go with a filter or filters that will give you GPH of 550 (turning the tank over 10 times per hour). Whatever the filter is rated at, it's usually slower after you stuff it with media. But 10X is a good rule of thumb IMO.
If you have Mbuna, be sure to include veggies in the diet.
I've heard all the discussions on soft/hard water, pH, etc. I made a call and happy with the decision.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Be sure to do 40 - 50% water changes each week to keep your nitrates down. High nitrates can stress fish and contribute to them coloring down.
Unfortunately some fish stores sell fish that have been treated with hormones that make them look good in the store, but then they lose the color after a few weeks (when the hormones wear off). I hope that wasn't the case with your fish, but certainly a possibility.
Usually an increase in filtration might be recommended but honestly you need a bigger tank.
What are your nitrates at, parts per million (ppm)?
Thanks for watching!
You could also go with Mbuna with a lot of rocks and probably put 15 - 20 in there.
Don't mix goldfish, Oscars and African Cichlids. Different water and good requirements. Not a good mix, even for a limited time.
Good luck.
Thanks for checking out the channel. It's appreciated.
Thank you for watching.
clown come very big , enjoy your tank
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Thank you for stopping by and commenting.
I've also been able to add a single fish from time to time by: 1) feeding the current fish, 2) floating the new guy, 3) turning the lights off and releasing the new one into the tank.
Good luck with the transition to cichlids and certainly feel free to come by the Facebook page for advice: "Ben O'Cichlid"
Thanks for watching.
Certainly water factors might have something to do with it. ACs needs hard water with a high pH, while SAC's require a softer, lower pH water. So, if your water is perfect for your SACs, it's not going to be what ACs need to thrive in.
I have seen some mixed tanks and one could argue that since the fish we buy are usually tank bred and raised, the water needed can be a bit flexible ... but your ACs are dying, so it must be something along those lines, IMO.
What was the "GH" and "pH" reading in your last water test? If you don't have a test kit, take a sample to the local fish store and they can test it for you.
If you pH is around 7.0, and GH is soft to medium hardness, then that might be what's killing off the new additions.
Or, maybe the ACs are being ambushed and killed after the lights go out by the SACs.
Let me know what those test results show and also ask your fish store what the keep their water at. The shock from the difference might be killing your new guys.
Having said that, I'm not opposed to airstones are they are certainly a valid way of helping to move water around and break up surface tension (oxygenate the tank).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFVO522rD9g&t=18s
Thanks man, so excited.
Just an off-the-cuff guess. You're right, there are other factors and regardless of these estimates I would encourage you to plan on eventually moving into a larger tank.
Regarding charcoal, I don't use it. It can get exhausted in a month or so and become useless. I do use it after I've medicated the tank to remove residual medication, but I pull it out after a week.
I do like to use Seachem Purigen in my canister filters.
If the water is crystal clear, then whatever you're doing seems to be working, and that is the ultimate test. Certainly test your water with an API Master Test Kit or Tetra EasyStrips to make sure that you're cycled before adding any fish (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 10 - 20 nitrate).
Do you know what the pH is of your tap water? If it's low, like 6.5 - 7.3, then I suggest adding a substrate that will help with buffering, like crushed coral and/or aragonite. If the tap test is giving you a high pH, over 7.5, then you can go with a substrate that is inexpensive, like playsand or blasting sand.
Come over to the Facebook page: "Ben O'Cichlid". We can continue speaking there and there are lots of members that can help you along.
Also , I do have a few more questions - hopefully you can assist
1- I have 3 air bubble wands , 1 with multi color Led lights , creates great oxygen and surface disruption .. my question is , is this ok to run 24/7?
2- and my second question is I have 2 fluval filters running in my 60 gal , thick sponge layer 1, carbon layer 2 and some rocks ina bag ( maybe bio?) later 3-water is clear as day .. I already set the tank up and added gravel , 3 decorations ( some hiding spots and some just nice decor ) .. is it imperative that I switch to sand ? I would hat to go back in and start over , but will if it's necessary .. After watching your videos along with some others this seems to be important for African cichlids ( haps and pea)
3- my temperature is a steady 78/79 - anything else I should know before adding the fish ? Ph level etc??..
Thank you for your time !!! Videos are great
Also, before adding fish I highly recommend that you consider sand. If your tap water is high pH, then go with cheap playsand. If your tap pH is lower than 7.5 then I recommend aragonite or crushed coral which will help buffer. Also, go with smooth rocks, not sharp edged rocks like the lava rock in my video. ACs dart around when startled or chased and bang into them and can get scraped. Limestone is good since it releases minerals into the water which buffer (raise pH).
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
By the way, be sure to watch my next video, I'm gonna throw out there the subject of our last conversation and see what kinds of comments I get. It's entitled, "Are We Killing Our Fish!" It should generate some lively conversations.
Thanks for watching and commenting Ron!
Thank you for stopping by.
(you earned a subscriber, and a like :D)
As a beginner, if you need help, come over to the facebook group, "Ben O'Cichlid" There are a lot of fish keepers there that are willing to answer questions and help out.
Regarding your other question, yes, I vacuum every time and now I do two 50 - 60 percent water changes per week. Every other water change I move the decor around to get the gunk that builds up under there.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/water_chemistry.php
(By the way, this is a good question for the group page at Facebook. Come on over if you wish. It's "Ben O'Cichlid" on Facebook.)
You can get a good deal on big tanks on craigslist. Sometimes people just want to get rid of them.
Good luck and thanks for stopping by.
Regarding the canister, they are set up differently. Watch my two canister tips videos. That will help.
How you do this is up to you and is often determined by the size of the tank (how much surface area) and how many fish (bio-load).
For example, a powerhead on a 20 gallon might be overkill and an HOB filter would create all the agitation you need.
However, as you move up into larger tanks, and add more fish, much more breaking up of the surface tension is needed. This releases "bad gas" (just like my brother-in-law) allowing the O2 percentage to increase, and move into the fish, exchanging with their bad-gas.
I use four surface agitation sources in my 60 gallon. Two rotating powerheads and attachments to my two canister outlets that move up and down, creating break-up in surface tension. You can see them in my more recent videos.
Come over to my Facebook page, "Ben O'Cichlid" and you can get a lot of info from all the members there (and me).
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for watching.
Search around, you'll find your favorites and you can set it up, by clicking on the alarm, to get a notification when they post new material.
The SunSun 302s are 17 watts each, so I'm using 34 watts for both.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
If the rotor screw-down cover is not seated absolutely perfectly (and it's not easy to screw it down perfectly unless do it in bright light so you can see what you're doing and can be sure it's lined up right) it will rattle.
Also, any air in the canister/hoses will create noise. That can be handled by rocking and tipping the canister in different directions until air stops coming out of the output.
Last, be sure the baskets are seated in perfect position.
I hope this helps. Good luck.
But the albino is not the dragon blood. !! search it in google image !! the difference is Albino has a orange eye and orange skin.
Dragon blood has a normal eye and there are some orange skin or flower skin.
One advice : if you find Aulonocara Albino dont buy the small one. bring the big one.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching.
Also, watch how long you have your lights on and if you're getting any sunlight on the tank. Those factors can impact algae.
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Maybe if you cut out some light time and add a UV sterilizer the algae will decrease?
Also, how many hours a day do you keep your lights on? That can have an impact as well.
One thing I do is turn the rocks over when I do water changes, this prevents too much from growing on one side.
Also, I vacuum every week. And recently I've added a standard green pleco and he's doing a wonderful job.
I don't have one but I've heard that a UV light can also help keep algae under control.
Hope this helps.
What I refer to is going beyond the manufacturer stated capacity / recommended use on the filter.
If I have a 75 gal tank and the filter says "good for up to 75 gal" you know I'm going to throw at least two of them on there!
We're on the same page.
As soon as you open the bag, especially if it's been sealed for a long time, like when fish are shipped, a reaction takes place that can spike ammonia (or something like that). So, it's best to float the bag a bit to minimize temp shock and then quickly open the bag and pour water and fish into a large net over a bucket, and quickly put the fish in the tank. No water from the bag should go into the tank.
John Hudson at KG Tropicals (TankTalk on Facebook) says he's being doing it this way for years and has never lost a fish due to the effects of acclimating.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have some Prime and Seachem Malawi Lake Salt mixed in a cup that I pour in as the tank is filling up.
I have some fish like in your tank and i dont really think that i know real name of them. For example I have two big boys i think: Aulonocara baenschi and another with blue head and brown body, can you tell me the exact name of this fish? On your video Baenschi chasing "brown" always. I have the opposite situation ^)
p.s. sorry for my English
Then, I am going to ask one question that do I need to keep the air pump on all the time since I don't see your tank has the air pump. Thank you
stamus is that normal
Bill
If you're losing fish after water water changes it could several things, like:
1) not matching water temperature before adding new water (I run at around 80°)
2) cleaning filter media with tap water instead of tank water and killing beneficial bacteria
3) not correctly treating the water before adding to the tank with something like Prime
Watch my "water change day" video and my canister filter maintenance videos. There's lots of good tips in there.
Good luck.
Did you temperature match the water before adding?
Did you correctly (exact dose) treat the water with a conditioner, de-chlorinator like Prime?
I'm sorry you lost them.
other then that fine video and some good advices got cichlids my self but mostly the bigger south american cichlids
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Giod luck and thanks for watching.
Maybe some Lake Salts and coral substrate would help stabilize.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
To help keep things clean pick up some cory cats, a small pleco (just keep in mind that common Pleco's can grow very large in a short period, like 6 - 9" or larger).
Those are all pretty common, pretty, and inexpensive.
Pick up some basic fish care info or watch a lot of youtube videos so that you don't unintentionally kill too many of them.
Good luck, it's a great hobby.
You have to stay on top of things. There's a happy medium there somewhere.
There are three kind of African Cichlid in my tank which are commonly referred to as Haps, Pracocks and Mbuna. Mine is a mixed tank. Some prople prefer to keep only one kind of African Cichlid.
I've got ah 20 gal tank how often should I feed dem (8 chiclids)
The flop and drop method might include floating the bag to match temperature but then pours out the fish into a bucket, catching the fish in a net and putting him in the tank. It's a faster way of getting the fish into the tank where the water is much healthier
KG Tropicals has a YouTube video on it. Search: "acclimating fish."
I suggest that you search some YouTube videos on SA Cichlids.
If you go with African Cichlids, I suggest adding 4 - 6 at a time to spread aggression.
Good luck.
Number and type of fish is where we should start. Give me an idea of what kind of tank you're trying to create.
http://m.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=8976
I am just getting started in this addiction of African cichlids lol..I was wondering what kind of cichlid is the one with the bright blue head and the kinda orange body and fins? Ps beautiful tank and fishes:)
Thanks Ben! I looked it up and it's the German red! It's a beautiful peacock for sure! I'll keep watching your videos and learning!
I would go all peacock but do your research because even some peacocks can develops a bad attitude.
A good resource for research is www.cichlid-forum.com
What I suggested above, with a Red Empress, Travertine Reg and Taiwan Reef would be awesome.
I can't really comment on South Americans. I've seen beautiful specimens and I used to keep discus and rams, but I love the activity level, attitude and variety of African Cichlids.
My ideal 55 would include a Ruby Red, a Lemon Jake, a Bi-color 500, a Ngara Flametail, a Sulfer Head, a Benga Sunshine, an Otter Point and a bushy nose albino pleco and three or four clown loaches. I would also suggest smooth rocks since lava rocks, like I'm using, has sharp edges and can scrape the fish (I'll be swapping out my rockscape in the near future). Also, consider using two canister filters like I have set up. I hope that helps. I know I missed a few fish ... so many to choose from.
A male and female Blue Johanni
a male Interruptus
a male and female jack dempsey
3 baby cichlids (not sure of species yet)
and a pea puffer
The babies and puffer fish are in seperate tanks away from my larger fish. Babies will be moved once bigger.
i find that loaches do well in peaceful tanks, where a large school of 8 or more individuals with other large(ish) but peaceful species.... preferably anything over 6 x 2 x 2 ft in size... as they can grow up to and over 2 ft if given the chance. (look at Marie the clown loach)
i understand that everyone has their own option but i personally believe that rift lake cichlids should stay with rift lake fish... only.
My nitates are gradually decreasing in my cichlid taank and I made two new filters for a gold fish tank with bbiohome
I do about 15% as a result of gravel cleaning the tank parameters remain stable and in acceptable levels,
The now side of large changes is the water chemistry can be radically altered adversely effecting the fish
Im not sure that flop and drop is proven to be better than your previous method?
Just wanted you to know that I think you make some nice vids. While I've kept fish for more than 30 years, 25 of those years with cichlids, I'm new to east African Rift Lake cichlids (less than a year) and love to hear other people's tips and tricks. I'll keep watching!
One other quick suggestion, instead of using Prime water conditioner you can get the same product in powder form , it's called Safe. This powder dissolves instantly and goes nearly 4 times as far as the liquid, it will save you a ton of money.
can the 2 thumbs down explain yourself.
About one of the tips in the video... You talked about when getting the new fish, just to strain the fish thru a net (getting rid of the water) then dropping them in the tank (as opposed to the gradual acclimating the water). I too had seen that video. But I would add a caveat that one should be mindful (I suggest doing a ph test) of the pH differences between the tank water the fish are about to go into, and the water that they are sitting in (in the transport bag). I almost lost a fish (he went into a state of shock for about 1-2 days) when he went from water in the 7.5ish ph range to 8.3. I have heard fish can die from extreme pH differences when they are not acclimated at all.